Trunk bike rack instead of hitch mount - Kia Niro Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-29-2017, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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Wink Trunk bike rack instead of hitch mount

I am not happy with a hitch solution. I don't carry my bike around everyday so it just adds weight to the car which in turn would affect my milage.

After frantically researching and looking at multiple trunk bike mounts (and talking to their support departments) the concern is the huge spoiler on the Niro. I saw some online videos from etrailer.com and they have some similar cars with the same spoiler using the Saris SuperBones 3 bike rack. The upper straps are located on the upper section of the upper arms. I am hoping to form an angle so the straps avoid putting any weight on the spoiler by mounting it high enough. I will know by today after I get my shipment.

Wish me luck.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-29-2017, 03:05 PM
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Good luck!! Keep us updated with photos and the process, you got this!
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-02-2017, 09:06 AM
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Yes - Keep us updated.

I might prefer the trailer hitch as could also use it to pull a light trailer. Not too worried about the trailer hitch weight reducing MPG. It would have to be negligible.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-05-2017, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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I am happy to report that the Superbones 3 was a great success with my Kia Niro. I mounted it so it was about a half to 1 inch clearance from the spoiler. This allowed a perfect angle so the straps did not add any weight or pressure to the spoilers. I drove with 1 bike for 5 hours (NY to MD), then 3 bikes for 1 hour, and finally 2 bikes for another 5 hours back. I added a supporting strap (Saris Hatch Huggers For Trunk Bike Racks) on the top left and right through the back door hinges as a precaution. These straps were not tight at all so they did not help the SuperBone 3 perform it's function. The rack did it all by itself. No scratches and bends. Very secure. Everyone else on the road had their bikes dancing on the highway on their hitches which I think adds stress to the chassis.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-05-2017, 06:41 PM
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Glad that worked for you.

I had a bit of trouble understanding some photos.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-13-2017, 12:02 PM
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Trailer Hitch

This is the list of products I used:

Curt Hitch: Class III 2" receiver
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer_Hitch/Curt/C13329.html

No wire cutting trailer light kit:
https://www.etrailer.com/Custom_Fit_...119250KIT.html

RV Wiring kit for 7 pin connector:
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...ler/ETBC7.html

Brake controller: (My trailer has a braking axle)
https://www.etrailer.com/Brake_Contr...rt/C51140.html

Universal brake controller connector:
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...rt/C51515.html

My setup is the max out way of doing this.
You can get by just fine with just the trailer hitch. The Curt is an absolute perfect fit.

I have a 6'x12' trailer that I put a brake axle on and an electric tongue jack.
Since I decided to go with the Tekonsha no cutting brake light kit, it has to have a power wire run to it from the front(fuse box). So since running a power line to the light adapter I figured I might as well just put the RV kit on there also, it provides power and brake controll, and reverse lights(almost never used).
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-16-2017, 12:07 PM
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Just want to point out the alternative to a bike rack for those who may not consider the options. Put the bicycle inside the car! No messing around with installing bike racks and the added weight. No extra drag (will cost several mpg). No bugs and dirt on your bike, and vastly reduced theft risk. The only downside is if you need more than two occupants.

I've also discovered that you can put a bicycle in a Niro upright! Tried it at a dealership. That gets you one additional passenger, or much easier packing of other things.

Two ways to do it and both involve going front wheel first (seat folded) and turning it 90 degrees so it drops into the rear passenger footwell (may require removing passenger headrest - easy). The seat will impact the headliner so it will have to be dropped. Alternatively, you can cut a hole in the storage floor for the rear wheel to sit into. The below storage floor area has enough room where you can simply put the bike in the car upright without any fussing with anything.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-16-2017, 02:23 PM
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonC View Post
This is the list of products I used:

Curt Hitch: Class III 2" receiver
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer_Hitch/Curt/C13329.html

No wire cutting trailer light kit:
https://www.etrailer.com/Custom_Fit_...119250KIT.html

RV Wiring kit for 7 pin connector:
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...ler/ETBC7.html

Brake controller: (My trailer has a braking axle)
https://www.etrailer.com/Brake_Contr...rt/C51140.html

Universal brake controller connector:
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...rt/C51515.html

My setup is the max out way of doing this.
You can get by just fine with just the trailer hitch. The Curt is an absolute perfect fit.

I have a 6'x12' trailer that I put a brake axle on and an electric tongue jack.
Since I decided to go with the Tekonsha no cutting brake light kit, it has to have a power wire run to it from the front(fuse box). So since running a power line to the light adapter I figured I might as well just put the RV kit on there also, it provides power and brake controll, and reverse lights(almost never used).
I have discovered that I needed just one additional part:
3 Pack Micro2 ATR APT Add-A-Circuit Lumision Fuse Tap Lot Dash Cam Radar Install | eBay

The fuse block by on the dash has nearly a dozen spare fuses, actually labeled spare. Incredible! I have the LX and it has the fuses and circuits all live for every thing you can think of, heated rear seats, heated steering wheel, heated mirrors, sun roof, power seats, every circuit is there!

My initial thought where to run the power lines to the fuse block in the engine bay. There are some very large 12V bolts there that you can tap into. However there is practically no space to fish the power wires through the firewall. Yes it can be done, but I don't need very much amperage. I have decided to just tap into the fuse block on the dash inside the cabin, and with the "Add-A-Circuits" it's a plug and play operation.

This is not a very easy job to do, but nothing is really overly challenging either. There is a big rubber grommet already in the middle by the license plate that I fed the 4 trailer light wires through. In the left rear side compartment, behind the panel is a rubber grommet that I utilized to send the brake and trailer power wires through.

Take note, that the owners manual, indicates that this car should not be used to tow a trailer. I find it amusing in the fact that Kia has a commercial literally towing another car. And there are trailer hitch mounting points designed into the car and welded in place from the factory.

Just remember that there is no GCVW rating, just GVW rating and exceeding it is not recommended. I have no doubt that the rating is based on the brakes, this car has more than enough power to pull a 2000 lb trailer.

I am very comfortable with what I am doing. I have installed a brake controller for the trailer which has brakes itself also. I have been towing trailers for many years and am very confident this car will look very silly pulling my mowing trailer.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-26-2017, 03:09 PM
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Thank you!
Just got my Niro this week and heading out of town next week.... with bikes! Thanks for the info on the Saris rack.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-26-2017, 07:30 PM
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Nice looking! Pretty much covers any view you had out the back though doesn't it?

2017 Niro EX w/Tech Pkg


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