Install of Ham Radio Transceiver - Kia Niro Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Install of Ham Radio Transceiver

Just in case anyone else has attempted to install a transceiver in the Niro, the only place I could find to mount it was on the passenger side of the center console.

I drilled holes in the side panels using the mounting bracket as a guide. I then inserted rivet nuts for 4 mm thumb screws, which are the same size as the ones that come with the radio. Don't squeeze the riv nut gun too tight or the rivet nut will not be secure in the hole. I found squeezing it about 1/2 way to be just perfect.

Once I mounted the bracket, I need to get the best viewing angle for the display. I drill new holes in the the mounting bract for that and then I made a support out of U channel to place beneath the back end of the radio to support it and prevent the bracket rivet nuts from being pulled out of the holes. I used rivet nuts and thumb screws on the bracket as well.

It only takes 30 seconds to remove the radio and another couple of minutes to remove the brackets.

I did scratch the sides of the console when I initial attempted to mount the radio using Velcro. The Velcro didn't work because the heat from the sun would often the adhesive and the radio would fall down.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 08:02 PM
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That crossbar is costing you several mpg at highway speeds. Can you mount the antenna directly to the roof rail?

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by yticolev View Post
That crossbar is costing you several mpg at highway speeds. Can you mount the antenna directly to the roof rail?

to many amateur operators losing a mpg is not a problem.... I however would use a Diamond K-400 mount and mount it to the rear hatch lip..... the way pictured here while very usable, will certainly result in mayhem in a parking structure with fluorescent lights..... been there, done that!

What I want to know, where did you grab power, any power related issues to report???

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Right now I just plugged into the accessory outlet without any issues. Seems to work great.
I have a couple of different Diamond mounts, of which the rack mount is one of. I've looked over the rear hatch and can't find an acceptable spot. There is a lot of plastic on that hatch.
I previously tried the passenger side of the front hood, but RF was getting into the FT-7100, which is a piece of junk. I should try it with this new radio. Seems to have a lot better shielding.

I am aware of the MPG loss due to the bar mount and the antenna is constantly getting flexed and banged around by each section of the garage door. I haven't found a suitable mount for the closed rail design and I'm looking at fabricating my own electric folding mount. The manufactured one that is currently on the market only lasts 1-2 years before breaking down. I've found a couple of high torque, low rpm and self locking miniature motor/gear box assemblies for around $10. I would need to make a connection to the antenna mount and add a couple of limit switches. The power could be brought up the coax using caps to block the DC. I would just need to make sure that the caps can pass thru the UHF band and can handle the power.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-09-2018, 09:13 AM
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I have a question about the install as I am a potential buyer and will want to install my ID-4100. I assume you have a Niro HEV (non-plug in). Does it have a 12 volt battery? I want to wire directly to the battery but am not sure there is one in this model. I think there is one in the PHEV model. Thanks for the feedback.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-09-2018, 04:47 PM
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Does it have a 12 volt battery? I want to wire directly to the battery but am not sure there is one in this model. I think there is one in the PHEV model. Thanks for the feedback.

You are correct, there is not a standard 12v battery. It's integrated with the HV battery.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-09-2018, 06:40 PM
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Why not hard wire it to the 12V accessory outlet on the dash? Mind you, it will turn off after you turn the car off (either timed or when you open the driver's door to exit).

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-09-2018, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by yticolev View Post
Why not hard wire it to the 12V accessory outlet on the dash? Mind you, it will turn off after you turn the car off (either timed or when you open the driver's door to exit).

The proper way to install 2 way radios is to run both positive & negative leads from the battery to the transceiver.
There are many reasons you would want & need full 12 volt power at all times to the rig. While the Niro is a terrific modern auto, the 12 volt battery leaves a lot to be desired.....

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-10-2018, 06:31 AM Thread Starter
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Why not hard wire it to the 12V accessory outlet on the dash? Mind you, it will turn off after you turn the car off (either timed or when you open the driver's door to exit).
First reason I chose to use a plug in is because I was testing to see how and if VHF/UHF radiation would in someway, shape or form, affect the electronic control systems in the vehicle. Second reason is that there isn't a separate 12VDC battery, but a circuit using a portion of the main 230VDC battery.

In theory, one could hook up to the posts used for jump starting a weak 12VDC starting circuit, but I'm not sure exactly what voltage is applied to the circuit when the 12VDC reset button is pressed inside the passenger compartment. I also didn't want to take a chance on that and cutting into the outlet wiring as being considered "rewiring", in case I fried something when transmitting. Additionally, the transceiver draws 10-12 amps on transmit, which is well below the 15 amp rating of the outlet.

I'm kinda, sorta charting new territory, and I want to limit collateral damage.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-10-2018, 08:47 AM
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The other option is to hard wire directly to the battery. That will require removing the guards from the traction battery under the rear seat to get to it. No job for the faint of heart! But the issues of a battery restart will remain. You may find you can test a voltage surge by running the battery flat and pushing reset with a volt meter. Not sure that would work as car still isn't "on" to feed power to outlets (which still means you are safe). Think about sensitive CPUs that are hooked up to the 12 V battery. Should be safe for a radio. You could also make a buffer or a fuse between the car and the radio.

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