Engine clutch actuator fluid - Page 5 - Kia Niro Forum
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post #41 of 73 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91cavgt View Post
In regards to the Niro with 138k on it, please keep this in mind. Those miles are primarily highway miles where the DCT is not changing gears very often at all. If a majority of your miles occur in city driving then your 20k mile Niro could have shifted more times than the 138k mile Niro.

So don’t be so quick to dismiss required maintenance because one other Niro has not had a problem.
Highway miles may actually use the engine clutch more frequently than city driving. As much as several times a minute as the car goes from EV engine off to engine on. That is what I see in my own driving looking at the EV light - pretty smooth transitions, hard to notice without the light or flow display.

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post #42 of 73 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 06:00 PM
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Engine clutch actuator fluid

Finally after 23000 miles I have decided to change the engine clutch actuator fluid on 2017 HEV. I have been able to remove 90 ml from the reservoir, the manual states the volume as 105 ml, that leaves approx. 10 ml in the hose and piston. To my surprise the liquid removed was cloudy (emulsion) and yellowish in color, with some oily droplets floating at the top. I have flushed the white deposits on the bottom of the reservoir and refilled the contained with 90 ml of new brake fluid (DOT 3, no I did not flush the hose and the piston).
Is the possible oil leak into the clutch fluid related to the earlier recall? According to KIA this vehicle was already manufactured with the improved version of the clutch actuator and did not require any work.






Please see the attached picture; on the right side is the yellow milky liquid from Niro, on the left side liquid removed from clutch reservoir in a vehicle with manual transmission, in time it will turn almost black, but will remain clear.
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post #43 of 73 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 03:52 PM
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Mine was darker than yours I changed around 22k miles in the post below I took pics and changed several times.

https://www.kianiroforum.com/forum/6...d-price-2.html
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post #44 of 73 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 05:28 PM
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Yours looks normal. Yellow and milky is not.

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post #45 of 73 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 09:41 AM
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I posted this under the thread (Actuator Fluid Price), maybe better to post it here. Looking for a response as to a METHOD (how to) change the fluid.

Glad I stumbled onto this thread.

That said - I am lost on the "How To" of this and now need to do some research as to how to change the fluid (the method of sucking old out and adding new a few times until it looks clear).

Anyone have any pictures of the process of doing that change, where the reservoir is, etc.?

Maybe, can find a U-Tube or something in the manual.

Anyway, I guess I better pay more attention to recommended maintenance. I tend to do minimum maintenance.

I Hate to Admit - I am now at 30,184 miles and all I have done is change engine oil (at somewhere around 6000 miles intervals).

I further Hate To Admit - I have not really looked at the recommended maintenance in the manual except for the initial one.

PS: Cars are getting to complicated for this old 80 yr old, not that I yearn for the Good Old Days when you changed oil and points and needed valve jobs at 50,00 miles (exaggerated maybe), but cars now going 100, 200, 300,000 miles is a bit better.

However, to tell the truth, I have only changed oil on vehicles for years and not transmission fluid. Except for a NISSAN Rogue's transmission fluid because the CVT required special effort (I let a dealer do it at 30,000 some for like $120 - another dealer wanted over $200). I have had radiator fluid changed on a car or two.

Most time, I trade at 80K to 100K miles.


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post #46 of 73 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 09:28 PM
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Update --

I did the suck and refill method at 30, 326 miles.

I used a radiator Fluid Checker for the suck procedure because I had an old one that never use anymore.

The tube size fit into the area where the hose is.

First suck: I had compressed the ball before inserting in the fluid, came out clear.

Second and Third suck: I compressed ball with tube in the fluid and it got milky. Pumping air in the fluid I guess.

Stored in a pint jar - it was very milky at first, probably from the procedure of compressing the ball while in the fluid (not do that again).

Eventually settled out to a very thin layer of white (milky) on bottom of the container. Whatever that is, I do not know.

PS: I plan to do the procedure again at some near mileage (hoping if any mix occurs with old fluid left in hose and clutch, will get some of that out).

That said, read on GOOGLE someplace: A mechanic said, you don't get much mix. I guess fluid is not circulating, just hose and reservoir is taking in and out when needed.

PSS: Anyway, I am not going to worry too much about it - relying on the guy that has 150,000 miles and never changed it.
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post #47 of 73 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 09:54 PM
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Engine cljutch actuator fluid

Just a thought to consider. A lesson I have learned with dealerships is to trust them as far as you can throw em. They're great at selling cars and lousy when it comes to standing behind them. For those of you that are changing your actuator fluid via the d.i.y. method. If you were to have any problems down the road with either your clutch or transmission. I am positively sure they would void your warranty for that reason alone. From what I've learned on these DCT's, they are a complicated, and expensive to repair. I dont know if true or not, but Ive read where instead of rebuilding the clutch packs due to wear,The whole transmission is changed out. (other dct's). Another words, whether true or not a clutch replacement will be an expensive endeavor. I wont be taking the chance of this service for the above reason alone. I read online where a guys warranty for his brakes was voided because he painted his calipers. The sad part is I believe it. Keep in mind folks, this car is a first gen car, and Kia's first dedicated hybrid platform. Many a car owner discovered they bought a badly engineeered car only after it was too late. As for me, I will have that service done by a dealer every 22,000 mi. Even though I dont like it. Many times in my life I've experienced the catch phrase " penny wise and pound foolish." It never feels good.
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post #48 of 73 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 07:55 AM
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The clutch actuator fluid is for the engine clutch. Nothing to do at all with the DCT which has dry clutches that are electrically activated.
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post #49 of 73 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 03:38 PM
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I dont care what clutch you call it. All clutchs have a service life. They are a wear item just like brake pads. KIA felt this was important enough to do every 22, 000 mi. Either important to clutch life, or important to them to void your warranty.
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post #50 of 73 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 03:56 PM
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And remember on the 2019 Niro, Kia changed/increased the change interval for the engine clutch actuator fluid to 15,000 miles/2 years. So they must think it is important to change.
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