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I believe the "A" weighting is the one most commonly used for ambient noise levels... I looked up our city's noise abatement regulations, and they specify the "A" weighting for noise limits for enforcement.

Greg
I can see using A weighting for noise enforcement, since it blocks ignores that low frequency noise that has a lot of energy but isn't really that loud. At church if I switch between A and C the A scale reads sometimes as much as 10 dB lower, simply because it's not getting all the bass guitar and low level of the drums. But inside the sanctuary, I need to include them in the overall level reading, even though some of that low frequency is felt more than heard.
 

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I can see using A weighting for noise enforcement, since it blocks ignores that low frequency noise that has a lot of energy but isn't really that loud. At church if I switch between A and C the A scale reads sometimes as much as 10 dB lower, simply because it's not getting all the bass guitar and low level of the drums. But inside the sanctuary, I need to include them in the overall level reading, even though some of that low frequency is felt more than heard.
I agree that A is the likely choice given it is either a 20Hz cutoff with C, or a 400Hz cutoff with A. Middle C is 256 Hz, so going with C would be 3.5 octaves lower than middle C. Going with A cuts the amplitude of middle C about 10db. The human ear is flat from about 40Hz to 1Khz, then peaks at about 3Khz, and drops off at 10Khz. From a design point of view, the best (from the standpoint of passing the test with the least audible noise) sounds would be confined between 500Hz and 1.5Khz, so that the meter picks it up, but so that the ear does not over emphasize it - using the A weighing on the meter. If C weighing is used, the best frequencies would be more like 70 Hz to 1Khz.
 

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I agree that A is the likely choice given it is either a 20Hz cutoff with C, or a 400Hz cutoff with A. Middle C is 256 Hz, so going with C would be 3.5 octaves lower than middle C. Going with A cuts the amplitude of middle C about 10db. The human ear is flat from about 40Hz to 1Khz, then peaks at about 3Khz, and drops off at 10Khz. From a design point of view, the best (from the standpoint of passing the test with the least audible noise) sounds would be confined between 500Hz and 1.5Khz, so that the meter picks it up, but so that the ear does not over emphasize it - using the A weighing on the meter. If C weighing is used, the best frequencies would be more like 70 Hz to 1Khz.
In addition, the sound should be continuous rather than with short beeps.
 

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Hmm.... here in the US, backup noises are always a series of beeps.... are you saying to measure you need it continuous? That I get...

Greg
 

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In addition, the sound should be continuous rather than with short beeps.
Hmm.... here in the US, backup noises are always a series of beeps.... are you saying to measure you need it continuous? That I get...

Greg
A continuous sound would not be as loud. ... I tried to take off the front cover today. No luck. The top bolts out. The bottom cover off. The wheel well loose. But, the front cover wouldn't come free around the headlights.
 

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No, just the 5 photos. When trying to load the video, it wanted to add an extension to Google. Kept screwing up my computer.
 

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Well, I guess it is different... I think you can pay a subscription to kia to access the manuals online... I may do this eventually.

$19 for a 72 hour subscription, pay your $$ and download everything you can


I emailed them and asked to be sure they had the 2020 EV wiring diagrams on the site. Will report back when they answer.

Greg
 

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Well, I guess it is different... I think you can pay a subscription to kia to access the manuals online... I may do this eventually.

$19 for a 72 hour subscription, pay your $$ and download everything you can


I emailed them and asked to be sure they had the 2020 EV wiring diagrams on the site. Will report back when they answer.

Greg
good. Maybe it provides some programming info about how to change the sound?
 

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I doubt that! If they are compelled to produce the sound, I would think the possibility they instruct you how to change it would be remote.

I would hook up with Eric, who made the video.

I intend to get a small CAN interface like he has, I want to use it to try to set functions to come on when starting:
sports mode
decel / regen rate
sound defeat
etc.

Greg
 

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2020 Kia Niro EV EX Premium Snow White Pearl
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Those pictures are the one I followed. After removing all the fasteners, the cover was loose on the top and bottom, but hung up around the headlights.
I followed the directions linked by Greg and it worked for me this weekend.

The bumper is connected to the headlights by a bunch of clips. I was able to detach them by pushing the side of bumper in and up towards the light and slightly pulling the middle section at the same time.
 

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I agree, the sound is horrible! At the dealer, the car I drove did not have such a load sound. But the one I bought did. I suspect the dealer knows some way to mute the sound.
Ditto on the horrible. I know when I test drove my PHEV that I had it in reverse at least briefly, but in the wide open dealer lot and a 40+ mph road close by (and not sure if window was open), it did not grab my attention. At quiet suburban home, with noise echoing off cars and houses, it sounds like a 20-ton dump truck backing up. I have nothing to hide, but still prefer not advertising to my 17 closest neighbors that I am leaving the house.
 

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My car is usually parked about 2 feet from a corner of by driveway, flanked by closed garage doors. This creates a perfect corner reflector to alert at least 6 neighbors that a giant trash truck is backing up into their house, or it at least sounds like it.

Greg
 
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