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Yes, other things run off the fuse. Somewhere on one of the threads on one of the websites it is mentioned...
Hi there,

I read this thread and some others about VESS defeat on other forums. I just got a 2022 Kia Niro EV EX a couple of days ago, and would love to be able to push a button to temporarily disable it.

I have an opportunity to get an entire crash panel from a European Niro EV. My thought is I could then create a female-to-male adapter that would align wires to the corresponding pins in the European crash panel. Later, the adapter and the European crash panel could be removed and the US crash panel re-installed to return it to factory default if needed. The mod described here would simply be linked to the actual VESS button instead of a separate momentary button. Of course, the European crash panel would then have an inactive headlight alignment rotary switch, but that's easy to live with.

A couple of questions:
1) Do you see any reason this wouldn't work?
2) If not, would you be able to send me the pin outs for the entire US connector? Then I'd just have to find out the pin outs for the European version.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Seems like a lot of work. I am not actually sure that the wiring is different, but you would have to slog through the wiring diagrams to be sure. I bought a fuse cover but have yet to drill a hole in it for the button so it hangs by the wires still
 

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So one of the first things I did after bringing my 2022 EX Premium home, which I generally love with the exception of VESS, and really only the backup chime part of it, was to rig up a defeat switch using the fuse-interrupter technique. It's wired so that the switch's LED is on whenever the system is active. I like the relative non-invasiveness of this technique -- if I bring the car in for servicing I can easily just open the fuse cover, yank out my hack and replace the original micro fuse.

However I've found that I tend to leave my switch in the VESS-off position, more than I probably should given what else is protected by that fuse--a battery cooling system of some kind as I understand it.

Having said that I do wonder, if something presumably critical like a battery cooling system also uses that fuse, wouldn't it be surprising that the car would allow the fuse to be "blown" without any kind of error message?

So the other technique described here sounds attractive as it doesn't affect anything besides the VESS, except that it does make a permanent change to the hardware, and moreover does so with those T-taps which seem a little iffy to me (The Problem with Wire-Tap Connectors | Bareass Choppers Motorcycle Tech Pages).

One thing I'm wondering is if anyone has considered the momentary switch technique, but rather than tapping into the existing wires, adding a sort of extension cord for the entire cable harness and tapping into that. It's a little less trivial to take out than what I've done but doesn't suffer the risk of defeating things other than VESS. I guess one challenge might be finding the right connectors (would need both male and female) and perhaps there just being enough room in there for an extension.
 

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Some people just do the fuse and leave it on the rest of the time.

Replace the fuse with this switch. It fits perfectly in the door slot with no modifications.
Blue Ox BX88271 ATM Fuse Bypass Switch with Short Lead

 

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Some people just do the fuse and leave it on the rest of the time.

Replace the fuse with this switch. It fits perfectly in the door slot with no modifications.
Blue Ox BX88271 ATM Fuse Bypass Switch with Short Lead
Yeah I did basically a poor man's version of that, combining these with a bit of solder and heat shrink tubing:

Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SGWXB3P
Fuse Holder: Amazon.com: Specialized ECU Repair Car Fuse Holder Connector - Micro 2 Blade Type, Heavy Duty Wire Extension for Hard-To-Reach Vehicle Fuse Box Panel - Convenient Easy Tap & Test Accessory for Automotive Circuit : Automotive

I also connected the ground pin on that switch to the chassis using an alligator clip that I had lying around -- I didn't want to do anything that would require unscrewing anything.

Somewhat to my surprise the end of the fuse holder that plugs in to the fuse box wouldn't fit at first. I had to shave off some plastic an X-Acto knife, just the right amount so it would fit but not be loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Don't understand the fascination with the fuse interrupter. It affects other systems. Why bother, this takes a few minutes more and works the way Kia actually intended
 

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Don't understand the fascination with the fuse interrupter. It affects other systems. Why bother, this takes a few minutes more and works the way Kia actually intended
The only reason is to avoid tapping into two wires. I know, it shouldn't matter that much - but simply replacing a fuse with a switch is non-invasive and easily reversible. Tapping into wires is permanent. But - if the fuse disables one of the HVAC valves - I really don't know what that does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
The only reason is to avoid tapping into two wires. I know, it shouldn't matter that much - but simply replacing a fuse with a switch is non-invasive and easily reversible. Tapping into wires is permanent. But - if the fuse disables one of the HVAC valves - I really don't know what that does.
You are tapping into wires that are otherwise unused. If you cut the wire out of the car it would be of no consequence.

Instead you disable a system which you do not understand its function.

That does not seem so non invasive to me
 

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You are tapping into wires that are otherwise unused. If you cut the wire out of the car it would be of no consequence.

Instead you disable a system which you do not understand its function.

That does not seem so non invasive to me

I agree from an engineering standpoint. But from a modification standpoint it's a permanent invasive modification. You can't "untap" the wires. Still a better solution for all engineering intents and purposes.

One is permanent, one is temporary.
 

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EV silence sounds awesome. I did similar to what norcal22 did. I added a switch to the “memory 2” 7.5A fuse.
I bought the micro2 fuse extender: Amazon.com: Specialized ECU Repair Car Fuse Holder Connector - Micro 2 Blade Type, Heavy Duty Wire Extension for Hard-To-Reach Vehicle Fuse Box Panel - Convenient Easy Tap & Test Accessory for Automotive Circuit : Automotive. I thought I could just take out my fuse and put it in this extender. Nope. This extender required a 7.5A ATO fuse. So I bought a fuse at O’Reilly’s. And then the micro2 plug was about 20 mils too wide and thick. So a Dremel tool fixed that in 5 seconds.
And I bought a 10A switch: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VU381FW/ . I didn’t need a six pack, but oh well. I tested them all and all worked. I cut an extender wire and soldered in the switch.
I stuck the contraption in the fuse panel and let the switch hang out the hole. It does not look elegant. But it was a fast experiment.
I don’t completely understand the memory 2 fuse, but to be safe, every time I charge, I turn “on” the fuse. And my wife likes it “on” in parking lots.
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-Barry
 

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EV silence sounds awesome. I did similar to what norcal22 did. I added a switch to the “memory 2” 7.5A fuse.
I bought the micro2 fuse extender: Amazon.com: Specialized ECU Repair Car Fuse Holder Connector - Micro 2 Blade Type, Heavy Duty Wire Extension for Hard-To-Reach Vehicle Fuse Box Panel - Convenient Easy Tap & Test Accessory for Automotive Circuit : Automotive. I thought I could just take out my fuse and put it in this extender. Nope. This extender required a 7.5A ATO fuse. So I bought a fuse at O’Reilly’s. And then the micro2 plug was about 20 mils too wide and thick. So a Dremel tool fixed that in 5 seconds.
And I bought a 10A switch: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VU381FW/ . I didn’t need a six pack, but oh well. I tested them all and all worked. I cut an extender wire and soldered in the switch.
I stuck the contraption in the fuse panel and let the switch hang out the hole. It does not look elegant. But it was a fast experiment.
I don’t completely understand the memory 2 fuse, but to be safe, every time I charge, I turn “on” the fuse. And my wife likes it “on” in parking lots.
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View attachment 7287
-Barry
Look under the front bumper grill. You can see air vents. That's what is controlled by this fuse beyond VESS. It would be safer for the battery longevity if you only turned off VESS temporarily.
 

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So while other countries get a switch to turn off the incredibly loud reverse chime, and all of VESS, we in the US do not have this option.
The reason there is no option to turn it off is that it is illegal to do so, it is required by Federal Law.

Tesla recalls 579,000 vehicles over "Boombox" noise hazard (msn.com)

"The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration says on its website Thursday that the cars and SUVs have what Tesla calls a "Boombox" function that allows drivers to play sounds while the vehicles are moving. This violates federal safety standards that require pedestrian warning noises for electric cars, which make little noise when traveling, the agency says."

The reason for the law is the NHTSA established a definite link in reduction in pedestrian and cyclist deaths with the requirement for vehicles to make sounds when moving.

Minimum Sound Requirements for Hybrid And Electric Vehicles - Final Environmental Assessment (nhtsa.gov)
 

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Johnxyz has a good point about NHTSA law. So when we go silent, we go at our own risk. My wife turns on the sound in public parking lots. But we turn it off in our garage for our 6am departure. I mean we still look for pedestrians like we did in the old days.
Or if you took the literal 2 minutes longer to disable the VESS the way I have described......
The risk I see is summed up by rcnesneg above:
One is permanent, one is temporary.
Pulling a fuse is temporary. Installing Wire Taps makes a permanent mark and invites oxidation. Then add long-term vibration. Wire tap risks are summed up here: The Problem with Wire-Tap Connectors | Bareass Choppers Motorcycle Tech Pages

What I think about is--- if I must bring my car in for a warranty repair. I don’t want KIA to state, “You modified a wiring harness. That’s why your wire broke and thus the warranty is void.”

With a fuse, I just have to put it back in before I take the vehicle for a warranty repair. The drawback with my method (and thus the pro for your method) is I have to make sure the fuse is in when I DC fast charge (hence the series switch).
 
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