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2023 Niro EV Wind - Upgrading the audio system, is there a line level out?

622 Views 16 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  neogenesus
Hello. I just picked up a new 2023 Niro EV Wind edition. I also test drove the Wave edition with the Harmon Kardon audio + extra trim level, unfortunately the Wave was a bit outside my price range.

Aside from some differences in the the trim package it's a decent little EV and I have no major complaints other than the lagging audio and no moonroof. By comparison the HK audio in the Wave edition was much nicer and had a solid bump with the sub. There's no subwoofer in the Wind edition and while it sounds better than my old stock Audi and Volvo, it's just a bit dull overall with no low-end and limited headroom. So I plan to add a subwoofer and possibly upgrade the mid and high door speakers as well. Am okay with the overall volume of the system so I'd only be adding an amp for the subwoofer, or getting one with an amp pre-installed. I'll be taking it to a car stereo shop to have the work done, but thought maybe I could get some of the components on my own ahead of time. It's also just helpful to know what I'm working with.

Questions: Since the stereo/dash console is pretty integrated I don't plan to try to change that, but does anyone know if there's a line-level audio output behind the console or somewhere? Either full bandwidth or subwoofer? If so, is it unused or would an installer have to tap into the wires?

Part 2, if no line-level output: If we're going to have to tap into the HI-output speaker wires, is there a specific or best set to access? I've heard some vehicles have amps that can sense the voltage changes and may lose audio signal. Example: is it better to splice into the front left speaker wires or rear right wires?

Also, is better to use the HI-input speaker ins on an amp, or to get a converter box (like an AudioControl LC2i Pro) that changes the HI-level audio into line level. Any noticeable drop in EV performance or charge adding an amp? I've read some newer amps are optimized to be extremely efficient with power consumption.

Being the vehicle is so new I've found some technical data is hard to find. I'm guessing a pro shop would have access rather than finding out by taking the vehicle apart?

Any insight, recommendations or information is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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Don’t get the lc2 I’ve had both this one is cheaper and better. Even sounds better for some reason. You can always pull the signal from a door speaker.

Kicker 46KISLOC2 Speaker Wire-to-RCA Line-Out Converter w/LOC+12v Turn on Lead https://a.co/d/12G3G8Y
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Thanks for the tip ! 🔊
Hello. I just picked up a new 2023 Niro EV Wind edition. I also test drove the Wave edition with the Harmon Kardon audio + extra trim level, unfortunately the Wave was a bit outside my price range.

Aside from some differences in the the trim package it's a decent little EV and I have no major complaints other than the lagging audio and no moonroof. By comparison the HK audio in the Wave edition was much nicer and had a solid bump with the sub. There's no subwoofer in the Wind edition and while it sounds better than my old stock Audi and Volvo, it's just a bit dull overall with no low-end and limited headroom. So I plan to add a subwoofer and possibly upgrade the mid and high door speakers as well. Am okay with the overall volume of the system so I'd only be adding an amp for the subwoofer, or getting one with an amp pre-installed. I'll be taking it to a car stereo shop to have the work done, but thought maybe I could get some of the components on my own ahead of time. It's also just helpful to know what I'm working with.

Questions: Since the stereo/dash console is pretty integrated I don't plan to try to change that, but does anyone know if there's a line-level audio output behind the console or somewhere? Either full bandwidth or subwoofer? If so, is it unused or would an installer have to tap into the wires?

Part 2, if no line-level output: If we're going to have to tap into the HI-output speaker wires, is there a specific or best set to access? I've heard some vehicles have amps that can sense the voltage changes and may lose audio signal. Example: is it better to splice into the front left speaker wires or rear right wires?

Also, is better to use the HI-input speaker ins on an amp, or to get a converter box (like an AudioControl LC2i Pro) that changes the HI-level audio into line level. Any noticeable drop in EV performance or charge adding an amp? I've read some newer amps are optimized to be extremely efficient with power consumption.

Being the vehicle is so new I've found some technical data is hard to find. I'm guessing a pro shop would have access rather than finding out by taking the vehicle apart?

Any insight, recommendations or information is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

View attachment 8739
I have upgraded my 2023 PHEV EX earlier this year. Most likely, there is no line level output from the factory head unit, but it is very easy fix using line level converter. I have done it professionally and the only thing they asked is if my niro a hev/phev or pure ev because both hev/phev came with normal battery while the ev doesn't. I am pretty sure you will need another power converter if you install an amp for the ev.
So far, I don't notice any drop in ev performance. I have installed an amp (Kenwood x802.5), a DSP (Mosconi 6to8 aerospace , 2 front speakers (Alpine R2-S652) and an 8 inch subwoofer (Focal psb200). Will most likely change the back speakers and adding sound insulation soon.
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I have upgraded my 2023 PHEV EX earlier this year. Most likely, there is no line level output from the factory head unit, but it is very easy fix using line level converter. I have done it professionally and the only thing they asked is if my niro a hev/phev or pure ev because both hev/phev came with normal battery while the ev doesn't. I am pretty sure you will need another power converter if you install an amp for the ev.
So far, I don't notice any drop in ev performance. I have installed an amp (Kenwood x802.5), a DSP (Mosconi 6to8 aerospace , 2 front speakers (Alpine R2-S652) and an 8 inch subwoofer (Focal psb200). Will most likely change the back speakers and adding sound insulation soon.
Nice, must sound good. I went to a fairly well trusted car audio shop the other the day. The new Niro EV surprisingly does have a separate large standard 12 volt battery under the hood just like a standard fuel car, but the shop said that they "most likely" could not tap into it due to voltage issues which could possibly generate code errors for the Niro EV. I guess this was their experience with earlier year Niro EVs? But they weren't 100% sure that would happen with the 2023 Niro unless they got in there and started fiddling around. They suggested installing a capacitor or second small battery (like a motorcycle) with converter to run the amp and subwoofer and pulling the charge off the main battery block or adding a second plug-in just for that. I definitely do not want to deal with a second plug in just for a sub, there's got to be a better way! Plus it added a lot of extra costs. I'm not terribly concerned about losing performance if it means just slightly less miles off a full charge depending on how it's installed, of course I don't want the Niro to start generating code errors or having the electrical tweak out either. If the factory can add an amplified Harmon Kardon sub on the Wave edition, it must be able to be done with the Wind.

My old Prius hybrid had an Alpine powered subwoofer installed and it drained the 12 volt battery significantly quicker, but the battery was also the size of a smaller motorcycle battery and I only drove about 300 miles a month so it wasn't recharging much. Made me bonkers having to put it on a charger every month. Mixed with really nice speaker upgrades and a Kenwood head unit it sounded stellar with excellent crystal clear headroom.

Yeah, they would just use the existing speaker wires to send signal to the sub and the hi-level inputs already built into the amp, which was supposed to be one of Rockford Fosgate's most efficient running. I'm going to check with a more custom high-end shop to see if they have other ideas or a shop who's actually done more installs on EV's. Replacing door speakers shouldn't be an issue, just more money. With the car being so new not a lot of mods or info is available.

– Thanks.

Here's the big ole 12 volt battery in my EV -

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the only thing they asked is if my niro a hev/phev or pure ev because both hev/phev came with normal battery while the ev doesn't.
Not accurate. The PHEV and EV have standard lead acid 12v batteries, but the HEV has a separate li-ion 12v battery.
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All EV cars have a 12v auxiliary battery no?
All EV cars have a 12v auxiliary battery no?
All cars have a 12v aux battery. It differs in type, but most are either a traditional lead acid or a Li-Ion that is separate from the traction battery.
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All EV cars have a 12v auxiliary battery no?
I would think so. Similar to hybrids, the starting and operation protocols of a vehicle are separated from the drive/motor to help optimize efficiency. I was disappointed the 12 volt in the Prius and Lexus hybrids were so small but impressed that the new Niro EV had quite a large one. Considering there's a lot more electronics running with the large screens and sensors it makes sense.

As for installing a sub I'm wondering since there's a 12 volt output for accessories why that couldn't be used to power an amp with subwoofer? Seems that would not create any extra strain on the system since it's already dedicated for output while the vehicle is running. I don't use it anyways.
I’ve been running an amp for almost 5 years in my HEV I would connect it directly to the battery if it is putting out 12 volts all will be ok.

The 12 volt signal from a 12 volt port will be fused if you tap into it it will probably keep blowing the fuse.
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Don’t get the lc2 I’ve had both this one is cheaper and better. Even sounds better for some reason. You can always pull the signal from a door speaker.

Kicker 46KISLOC2 Speaker Wire-to-RCA Line-Out Converter w/LOC+12v Turn on Lead https://a.co/d/12G3G8Y
Trying to determine how this converter works with a 5-channel amp RCA setup. Then how much crap my dealership will give me with the warranty.
Trying to determine how this converter works with a 5-channel amp RCA setup. Then how much crap my dealership will give me with the warranty.
Isn't the Kicker line converter only for one channel? Sounds like you'd need at least 2 or 4 for right and left channels and some Y splitters to get 4 or 5. Audio control and other brands do make 6 channel converters. I'm trying to keep mine simple so I can easily remove the sub and amp when I likely trade it in a few years. I could see going custom certainly being an excuse if you had to make a warranty claim with the electrical.

After consulting with a different highly qualified car audio installer it sounds like my best route is to just get a sub with built in amp and use the built in HI-level inputs on the amp. Sounds like wiring directly to the main 12 volt battery won't be a problem, especially since the upper model Niro Wave with the Harmon Kardon system and extra electronics options powers off the same battery setup.
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And there lies my confusion. I was originally thinking the lc2i or a nicer digital version. But intimidating since I want to do the install myself.
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And there lies my confusion. I was originally thinking the lc2i or a nicer digital version. But intimidating since I want to do the install myself.
I've only heard good things about LC2 units, lots of Volvo enthusiast use them as Volvo audio systems are all tied into the HVAC and require software programming to do any serious mods. Get one off Amazon or somewhere with a good return policy and install it within the return window, if it doesn't work out, send it back.
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I have the kicker on my sub only it sounds better then the lc2 especially with a sub you turn the volume down on the radio the bass cuts off. The kicker doesn’t do this. I have had 3 lc2 they all did this. You may want a 6 channel amp then a sub amp. My Harmon kardon in my niro is loud enough for highs and mids. I’d see how loud your factory radio is with the bass turned down if it gets loud enough for you id just add a sub and amp for the bass.
All cars have a 12v aux battery. It differs in type, but most are either a traditional lead acid or a Li-Ion that is separate from the traction battery.
I see
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