I went back and forth on whether to have the service done or not, as others have mentioned the recommended interval seems ludicrously short. In the end I decided to go ahead and do it because...I checked the receipt and the total cost for the clutch fluid change was $160. $20 for the fluid (DOT 4 brake fluid as it happens) and $140 for the labor. Not cheap, but based on some posts around here not something I could realistically do myself as there is an adaptation procedure that requires the factory service software tool.
I'll post back with an update I have to drive 140 miles this weekend I'll see what it looks like after that.Thanks for the info. Be interested in knowing how long it takes for the fluid to turn brown again since you can't get all the old fluid out doing it your way. But your way is a lot cheaper and less hassle so even if you do it say an extra time it's worth it.
So I sucked my reservoir out today it was pretty brown looking but the new brake fluid is clear so Im going to drive it until this new fluid turns brown then suck it out again and I should have a good mix of new fluid. I put in the synthetic brake fluid.
Old fluid in cup, new in reservoir which I only drove like 2 miles then this pic was taken which you can't really see the new clear fluid.
The brake fluid has a strainer on it so its hard to pull fluid out but I got a little bit and it looked brownish.Nice Post! Thanks for the photos. That's more discolored than I would have guessed it would be for 20k miles. Is your brake fluid similarly discolored or does it look more like the new fluid?
In the past, when I've found myself in need of brake/clutch fluid, and found an old half-used bottle on the shelf that was opened more than a year ago, I've concluded that it would be better to purchase new fluid than to risk using that old opened bottle, because it can begin to absorb moisture as soon as you open it. My point is that you might want to take any near-term opportunities to use up the remaining 3/4 of that bottle, because you might not want to use any of that bottle a year from now.
There's a concern that this "turkey baster technique" of sucking out just part of the fluid might not be effective. The question is how well the old fluid in the hydraulic line and slave cylinder will mix with the new fluid. If it doesn't mix (if your new fluid doesn't become discolored from mixing with the fluid you couldn't remove on the first go-round). then perhaps the technique isn't adequate to allay concerns. But if it does mix, and if you change it a second (or maybe even a third) time and then it stays clear after that, it seems like it might be a smart approach. Of course, there's always the concern that if you had a warranty claim come up, this might not satisfy Kia that you'd done the required maintenance, but it seems like it's better than nothing and also a reasonable approach for a maintenance requirement that is unusually expensive and frequent specifically for the Niro.
Good work! Please keep us postedOk I think we have a successful test here. After 150 miles the cup on the left is what was in the reservoir cup on right is fluid I poured from the new bottle. I still have some left so I think I'll go with 150 again so in a few days I'll do it again. I may have enough for a 4th time I'm hoping. If the color in the reservoir keeps getting lighter and lighter in color that'll be a good sign.