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Discussion Starter #61
Nice job my man. Not many fans on here because its an energy saving crowd but I'm with you. I've had a sub since I was 15 and I'm 44 now.
We both have been in car audio for a very similar amount of time!

I got into it when I was 14 when my older brother got his first car and I’m 43 now!
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Read this article and it tells you exactly how to measure output power with an AC volt meter. All of my tests were at 40 hz.

http://rftech.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/468/~/measuring-amplifier-output-power


What this does not tell you is the distortion level. I do know from a YouTube video that a guy made where he tested the amp I have on an amplifier dyno is the amp is capable of roughly 600 watts continuous at less than 1% THD.

So, by setting the gain so the amp is putting out about 500 watts then I know the amp is not clipping. My maximum volume on the stock radio is 34. This is approximately 75% of max volume which typically is the highest you want to turn the volume up. It is more or less an industry setting if you have no means of putting an O scope on the speaker level outputs on the stock radio.


I’m not an electrical engineer but I have been around the block a few times.
 

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We both have been in car audio for a very similar amount of time!

I got into it when I was 14 when my older brother got his first car and I’m 43 now!
Yes sir I was building boxes and putting in radios and amps for everyone in the neighborhood at about 14-15ish. Just buy me the supplies and I did it for free because I've always loved doing that stuff. Now I can buy a single sub box ready for mount for like $30. lol
 

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Got the amp mostly wired up today. The power is connected to the 12v+ connection beside the hybrid battery. An in-line 40 amp fuse was used and 8 gauge wire was ran for the power and ground. A Micro2 fuse tap was used so I could get a switched power connection from the fuse box and use it as a remote turn on for the amp.



Would you be able to post pics of the power connection and ground? thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #66
I have mine hooked up in the same way, and I too have had zero problems with it connected in this way. For the ground I used a stud under the back seat on the passenger side.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
After many months of having the sub running flawlessly under the drivers seat I have decided that it is time for an upgrade to a better subwoofer.

The 10” Cadence subwoofer has exceeded my expectations in every way, and it being $50 is just icing on the cake. I am amazed that I have been pushing just over 500 watts RMS to this subwoofer(which is double its RMS power rating) and it has done nothing but take it. So now it is time for a better subwoofer that has more output, better power handling, and is in general a better made subwoofer.


So which subwoofer to get is the question that I have been pondering. Originally I wanted a new Sundown shallow mount subwoofer, but after talking to them they more or less told me that they have nothing that will work in such a small box. JL Audio has a nice shallow mount subwoofer, but it is designed for clarity and can’t take 500 watts RMS without risking damage. Kicker has one that is decent and is close to a good match but I found one better.

NVX VCW 104 is the sub. 10” high excursion(20 mm of linear xmax) dual 2 1/2” voice coils that are 4 ohms each. So when will I get this one in? I’m not quit sure.
 
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