Paul- if you use 0w-20 oil that is labeled on the filler, it's synthetic. 0w-20 is only synthetic oil. Per the manual, you can use 5w-30, or even 10w-30 (above 0 degrees F). Those two grades can be conventional oil.My first one was FREE (dealer) and they uses synthetic not a blend (I think).
I have never used Synthetic or a blend in anything (Cars, Motorcycles).
Come to think of it, I did use blend in a motor home years ago (not all the time, but sometime).
I guess if not changing more than twice a year -- no big deal on cost.
I had my local Mr. Tire do my first 7,500 mile oil change yesterday. $70 for the full synthetic oil and tire rotation. I miss the days of $20 oil change and tire rotation I had with my Optima.Paul- if you use 0w-20 oil that is labeled on the filler, it's synthetic. 0w-20 is only synthetic oil. Per the manual, you can use 5w-30, or even 10w-30 (above 0 degrees F). Those two grades can be conventional oil.
Especially with low miles, I would stick with the thinner 0w-20. That's what it came with. You are still breaking the engine in, and modern engines have very close tolerances.
The type of oil doesn't matter. It all pours out of the bottle the same.Is synthetic oil the best if you want to try doing oil changes yourself?
Might make sense with an engine starting and stopping as you drive down the road.Paul- if you use 0w-20 oil that is labeled on the filler, it's synthetic. 0w-20 is only synthetic oil. Per the manual, you can use 5w-30, or even 10w-30 (above 0 degrees F). Those two grades can be conventional oil.
Especially with low miles, I would stick with the thinner 0w-20. That's what it came with. You are still breaking the engine in, and modern engines have very close tolerances.
Paul, I have always done my own oil changes too. The dealer I bought from has 3 free years of oil changes and tire rotation, so of course I'll do that. I have never used synthetic in a car either, but I'm going to stick with what it came with. Anybody who is going to change oil, they are selling Mobil 1 right now for ~$22 to$25 for five quart jugs, plus a $10 rebate. Pretty good deal.Might make sense with an engine starting and stopping as you drive down the road.
I guess the engine parts would remain coated between these start / stop cycles regardless if synthetic or dinosaur oil.
Considering, probably only be changing twice a year --- no big deal the added cost of synthetic. Might even be worth extra cost and time taking it in to dealer so all are satisfied that it has been done on schedule.
I just have always done mine, especially after warranty runs out, vs taking time and to run to a garage or dealer. Plus, I know it was changed.
Update: I called two separate service departments at local Kia dealers (Rosen and Russ Darrow) in Milwaukee who told me they use 0W-20 API-SN or ACEA C2 for both 2017 and 2018 Kia Niros. Turns out I had a manual from some other region. The manual for my region and my two local dealers agree with the recommendation for 4.01qts of 0W-20 API-SN or ACEA C2 (evidence attached). Now to find a suitable manufacturer.At 6,500 miles, I'm getting ready to do the first oil change on my 2017 Kia Niro EX. Problem is...the US manual seems to give conflicting advice on the proper engine oil. I've attached an image of chapter 9 page 7 titled "RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS AND CAPACITIES" which simultaneously calls for "ACEA A5 or above / 5W30" and "SAE 5W-30 (API SL / ILSAC GF-3 / ACEA A3)".
So...which is it? Can I use ACEA A5? ACEA A3? Either? Can I use an oil with the ILSAC GF-3 or API SL rating but no ACEA rating?
DANGGJ (Dang Good Job) on that VIDEO. Maybe, should be a movie producer.Found a suitable oil (Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0W-20) and put this video together https://youtu.be/Q-eRyByNwvU. Hope this helps!