[TheAirman]

I bought the just released Curt hitch # 13531. It is made to fit all the 2023 Niro line, including the HEV, PHEV and EV.

On the HEV and PHEV, you have to lower and support the rear of the exhaust pipe and lower and support that vapor canister. On the EV, I only had to remove the rear under body panel.

I bought it from etrailer, and of course when they ship from etrailer, they just throw it in a box unprotected, and when it arrives after the UPS people toss it around, it was all scratched up and half hanging out of the box. If you buy from etrailer, be prepared to get on the phone when it arrives damaged.

It will fit, but I had some slight problems with my install. Mine missed fitting perfectly by about .25". But it did finally fit and tighten down.

I called Curt and told them they were off by 1/4". They claimed it was someone else and my hitch was flexed.

I think it was either UPS, or etrailer just tossing a heavy metal item in a box.

Here is a picture using an inspection mirror showing the bolt at the rear drivers side. With the mirror you can see the front and back of the bolt contact with the hitch. (the silver is rust preventative. The gold bolt is the mounting bolt.):

Here is the bracket that contacts the bolt in my install. It is circled and with an arrow.

hitch.pdf

Here is what Curt sent me telling me how to fix my "flexed" hitch:

It did fit, but if that bracket was just a little bit lower or smaller, it would have fit right up. Maybe your experience might be different.

 

[TheAirman]

You always know who your friends are when you ask for help on something like this, so I installed it by myself.

I raised the hitch up slowly into place with my floor jack:

But first you have to remove the under body plastic panel on the EV. It will need cut with tin snips in the last step. Plus you have to cut the center mounting tab on the car that holds the under body panel. The panel is held up with quick release plastic rivets, some 10mm nuts, and these 2 odd "speed nuts" in the center of the panel. they are integral to the panel. Remove them last. They have no threads, so they just pull off as you twist them. Push them back on first on re-install. Here they are:

Here is the cut in the panel with tin snips and a razor blade:

Here is the install manual from Curt:




13531_INS.pdf


And finally my bike rack is usable again.

Here is a picture of the hitch. Of course it's a 2" receiver and I only need a 1 1/4" receiver for my rack, so I had to buy a reducer. Don't buy the high priced on from etrailer. I found mine on "flea-bay" for cheap. Plus I found an old logo Kia 2" plug there too.

 

[TheAirman]

Just out of curiosity, how much clearance is there between the bottom of the hitch and the ground? Any issues with scraping?

I measured 9.5 inches clearance. About the same height of an exhaust pipe if it had one. Actually, the traction battery hangs down lower. I'll try to get a picture later.

 

[TheAirman]

9.5 inches is quite reasonable. While the traction battery is less, is does not hang over the end of the car so will not be subject to incline differences such as the entry to a driveway could be.

Exactly right.

I live in a very hilly area with some steep streets and private driveways. I hope I never get into a situation where I scrape the hitch on my Niro. Maybe backing into something might be a possibility. Anyways, here's two pictures to illustrate.

The traction battery is the silver rectangle below the hitch:

 

[TheAirman]

Ok.. I finally got access to the service manual and the approach to the connector I was taking was incorrect. They actually want you to take off the wheels, wheel wells, side brake lights, and bumper in order to replace the indicator and backup light bulb! The interior trim removal approach requires taking out the entire rear end trim and seats of the car...

This is insane. I am thinking about changing out those things to LED before I endeavor on trailer wiring. Honestly I may just take the easy route to get at brake light connector (for no nonsense brake lights) and rig up this for turn signals https://a.co/d/aFKLK8X Might actually be easier to hookup a photocell on top of the indicator lens

I've been following your posts. I was hoping you would be the guinea pig and take on the wiring. I didn't yet because I knew it would be a pain.

My new hitch is basically for the bike rack, but I do have a Harbor Freight small trailer with 8" wheels and old 12 Volt 1157 tail lights. There is the issue.

On the '23 Niro, the power for the LED tail lights comes from multiple sources. And I don't think it is even 12 volts. And the power for the turn signals is a whole different matter. Now, you have to find the power for the running lights.

I think before I even attempt to try trailer wiring, I need to update the trailer lights on my trailer from old 1157 bulbs to new LED tail lights. Maybe some cheap ones from Harbor Freight ?

That power for the tail lights is on a CAN bus. It's coming from some module somewhere. It'll take some searching to determine the sources.

As little as I ever used the Harbor Freight trailer, I was just going to risk it and not have any trailer lights.

If you figure it out......... post back.

 

[TheAirman]

Yes. It'll be interesting to know.

I saw a Tesla Model 3 pulling a cheap little trailer the other day, and I didn't notice if their trailer lights were working or not. But I imagine they were facing the same issue. Where to get 12V for the trailer lights with LED tail lights that aren't 12 Volts.

The Niro tail light plug is easy access under that panel in the trunk. I just haven't had the time to put a multi meter on it.

 

[TheAirman]

Excellent technical detective work !!!!!!!!! You even do your work on a granite table. Wow !!

First:
The EV has no 12V battery in the back. Mine is in the front under the frunk. So a powered and fused trailer light converter is out for me.

2) In your picture, is that the connector for the rear tail lights you picked up the 12V ? It might be 12V but I wonder if it carries the amps required to light another pair of lights.

3) In your picture of the lights working, are you using a powered converter hooked to your 12V battery, or did you just tap the rear tail lights wires?

Your little trailer is nice. But it already has LED lights. I need to upgrade mine to LED because I think the '23 Niro is not sending enough amps back to those "combination" lights like in the old days.

That 12V you found is more of a control voltage and it is not coming from a plunger switch at the brake pedal like the old days either. On the EV, my brake lights automatically come on with adaptive cruise, iPedal, and different levels of Regen one pedal driving.

I wasn't planning on using those turn signals either, but how I'm going to get lights to work is still a work in progress.

 

[TheAirman]

I have a 2023 Phev. Curt and E Trailer both told me it was the C77NR that was made for the Phev. I can't even find the 13531 on the E Trailer site. I had a 2018 Niro Phev and installed a Curt unit on that one and it wasn't too complicated (some grinding of the hitch mount and trimming of some plastic). So I am somewhat familiar with the installation. I just want to make sure I get the proper unit for the Phev.
Could you double check your order number?
Thanks!

Sorry for the late reply.
The c77nr is E trailers stock number for the #13531.

Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2" Receiver, Select Kia Niro, EV

You don't need to buy from E trailer. Other places sell the 13531 Curt hitch. Just make sure it's a Curt 13531 no matter what the retailer stock number is, becuse it will fit the PHEV. You need to lower the exhaust and canister.

 

[TheAirman]

Hehe. My toolbox socket drawer is a mess and just brought the bolt to it and matched it without looking at the size. If I get underneath again I'll have a look-see.

They are metric bolts. Sometimes on these bigger, meaty metric bolts you can find a SAE size that is close. Just use caution not to strip it and bust a knuckle.

Also, many thanks for the pin out of the brake light plug.