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Driver window issue

11K views 25 replies 19 participants last post by  onorton  
#1 ·
So just the other day I rolled my driver side window half way down. When I went to roll it up it went down a little and stopped. Tried again and it went all the way down. Once its down it will go all the way up. Issue seems to happen when its 1/4 of the way down or more. I now have to roll it fully down to make it go up. Anyone experience this issue. Im trying to find out if it is a window switch or window motor issue. It rolls smoothly even when it goes in the wrong direction and hasn't mirrored the issues I've had in other vehicles when it was the window motor that goes out. Its a 2019 base model Niro. I appreciate if anyone has any feedback or diagnostic info. Just thought I would start here before pulling the door panel. It only does it on this one window.
 
#2 ·
Sounds like the window might be slightly off kilter, and is binding when going up. Might try a little lube on the window channels to see if it smooths out. I see WD-40 silicone spray (not the "regular" stuff) as a suggested lube. But any silicone spray should be fine.
 
#8 ·
lightly off kilter, and is binding when going up. Might try a little lube on the window channels to see if it smooths out. I see WD-40 silicone spray (not the "regular" stuff) as a suggested lube. But any silicone spray should be fine.
I'm having the same issue. I have a 2017 EX. I do not detect any binding, slippage, or track issues. I suspect it is a switch issue. Hasn't been too troublesome, and I hate going to the dealership. If I do I'll update this post.
I have a 2022 PHEV EX Premium with the same exact issue too. 25k miles on currently. Interested to hear what you hear from the dealership. The dealer I bought from was complete scumbags so im not going back there at least. Also have had the rear window spray not trigger the wiper repeatedly. And had one time it decided the hood and trunk were open and couldn't drive, even though they were not...
 
#7 ·
I'm having the same issue. I have a 2017 EX. I do not detect any binding, slippage, or track issues. I suspect it is a switch issue. Hasn't been too troublesome, and I hate going to the dealership. If I do I'll update this post.
 
#9 ·
I took my 2018 Niro to the dealer. They replaced the window regulator motor with no improvement. They then replaced the window switch with no improvement. Kia "engineering" recommended checking resistance in all door wires, but all were within spec. They found some wires loose in the door wire plugs and tightened them, but... no improvement. I don't think they know what is going on with the car. Royal Kia Tucson AZ provided the service. I will be taking it back to second dealer for second opinion...
 
#12 ·
Are you the only driver of the car? If not, see if someone else can recreate the problem.

Before setting up a dealer appointment, shoot a video (you will probably need an assistant) showing the problem. All too often when something intermittent like this happens, the dealer says "We can't recreate it" and you have wasted a trip.
 
#13 ·
Mine does this as well, 2021 ex ev, if I roll the drivers window ~1/2 way down and then try to use the auto close it will go up slightly then down and inch or two and stop. It does this twice then it will go back up. The dealer said it was because I had aftermarket tints which didn’t sound right because of how specific the issue is. Do you have tints on your car?

The dealer recalibrated something in the window but it did not fix the issue.
 
#14 ·
Our 2018 does the same thing. I think what's happening is the motor resistance is too high and it's false positive triggering on an "object being pinched" and releasing it back down. I just bought a used window motor off ebay and it fixed the issue right away. Did need to relearn auto up (just hold up until it tops out and keep holding a few seconds).

Out of curiosity, thinking maybe something was gunked up or needing lube, I took apart the old motor. everything looked fine, except there was wear on the rotor inside the metal housing, so perhaps his led to an internal short of the plates, increased resistance at some locations when rotating. Nothing I could fix, tossed to scrap metal.
 
#15 ·
I have the same problem on the driver window switch: When the up/down switch is activated after the window is partially rolled down, the window will move in the opposite direction of the switch a couple times. Electric windows means there's probably a simple logic circuit between the switch and the motor. Annoying.

And in the last week I've noticed the outside driver door handle lock/unlock switch (black) has stopped working completely. I now must use my FOB to lock/unlock on the driver side. That's two defects on the same door! And not 5 years old yet.
 
#17 ·
If the issue is that the driver (or any safety window, the LX only has it on driver) window sometimes blips up and stops, then down an inch when you hit auto-up, you actually change the driver window motor, the switch itself is (likely) fine. The motor has too much resistance and think it's a pinch, so it stops and backs off.
 
#26 ·
So. I think this issue is fixed. And, the issue - after the switch and motor repair - was user misunderstanding on how the "Auto" switch works. I went back to the dealer to talk this over with a service specialist and he showed me the correct way to operate and reset the "Auto" switch. Now I'm not having an issue. I looked for a video on how to reset the auto switch and found this:

Bottom Line: I believe that the way that this switch is programmed is problematic.
 
#25 ·
The dealer observed the motors were overheating and replaced them. This leads me to suspect misalignment inside the door panel. Since they also sprayed in a bunch of lubricant when they replaced the motors, it would also explain why it temporarily fixed the problem. Nonetheless, could both doors have the same defect?
I'll be taking it to a different dealer since the last "repair" is still covered under warranty and the dealer I bought it from has proved they really have no idea what the problem is. I'll suggest they check the tracks and the alignment, rather than just looking at the electrical.