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I am having second thoughts. I think I am change regardless if it is clean or not. I don’t want anything happening because they might lie and say that I refused. I think I am going to do to research to find a mechanic who specializes in hybrid cars. The problem is that it is hard because most don’t know how to work on hybrid cars.
You might be able to find a mechanic that has the right equipment, or you might find it easier to take it to a different dealer. There's a 2017 manual online that describes the repair procedure here. If you're just changing the fluid, it's not as complicated as what's described in that link, but if you get any air in the line, then there's a procedure half way down the page that talks about using the "KDS" to purge the air and re-train the car. The KDS is a diagnostic tool that costs a little over USD $5,000. Anyone with the right equipment should be able to flush the line without introducing air, but if they make a mistake and they don't have a KDS, then you might wind up needing to visit the dealer after that. And given that several people have had concerns about shifting problems, one can speculate that periodic retraining with a KDS might be an important part of this maintenance procedure.
 

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There is a lot of D.Y.I's out there doing this service themselves. I just had the service done @ the dealership . Cost was 140. Had a good Conversation with the Top Mechanic doing this service. There is more to this service than just replacing the fluid. He printed out the complete service, which I will attach. He stated few niro owners are doing this service and agree'd that by not complying to what is dictated in the service manual. You are risking your warranty protection if problems arise. These dual clutch transmissions are highly technical and repair costs will be also. It's a no brainers decision for me to have this service done. Best of luck to those who chose otherwise.
The Engine Clutch Actuator and it's fluid has nothing to do with the DCT(dual clutch transmission)! They are two totally different things! I keep seeing this error in the threads. I really hope you did not get that info from the Kia mechanic..somehow I think you must've misunderstood the tech, as the paperwork looks like the right procedure.
 

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In this DIY opinion- The Service Technicians pull a vacuum on the system and get as much fluid out as possible then add the fluid. The next procedure would be for exercising the clutch to remove any entrapped air. There is no bleed port or way to physically bleed fluid from the system.

Here is the actual procedure from the manual - if you scroll down to step 2 in the clutch replacement it details what the technician detailed on your bill.

One of the supposed advantages of hydraulic clutches is that they are self adjusting.

One individual on the forum went over 150,000 miles with no fluid change or adjustment-while I am not confident doing that it does point out these clutches work very well with minimal attention
54,000 miles on the 2019 Niro and haven't touched it yet. I'll call you all when I get stranded and need a lift.
 

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I thought I posted Actuator Fluid pictures (pictures of sediment after the FIRST change at 30,362 miles and after the SECOND change at 36,314 miles) but don't see a post with such. I used the suck old fluid out and add new fluid. I use an old Radiator Fluid Tester because I had one on hand. It has a narrow tube so gets down into the reservoir pretty good.
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Nice pictures! Thanks. Seeing that sediment certainly encourages me to do the same.

Are you planning on doing short interval changes going forward? A second 30,000 change would have been extra interesting.
 

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Just to add another data point, I changed the fluid today in my 2019 after 15K miles using one of these syringes.

Old fluid was amber but not very cloudy. I noticed that there was a lot of really fine white sediment in the bottom of the reservoir that didn't come out for the first suck. Adding the fresh stuff stirred it up into a cloudy, milky yellow. I used PEAK. I pulled out the first refill immediately to get all the sediment it stirred up, then refilled a second time so it was clear.

Someone earlier mentioned the same thing happening, but thought it was because of bubbles. I don't think bubbles caused the cloudiness. I tried blowing bubbles into some new fluid, but it doesn't go cloudy.

If there's that much sediment @ 30K, I'm going to make another attempt to get the local dealership to do it. I called to ask about it and they said they'd never done it before, but someone else asked that week too. They said they could quote me for parts but didn't know about labor. I said it was Dot3. They forwarded my call to the parts department...

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Just to add another data point, I changed the fluid today in my 2019 after 15K miles using one of these syringes.

Old fluid was amber but not very cloudy. I noticed that there was a lot of really fine white sediment in the bottom of the reservoir that didn't come out for the first suck. Adding the fresh stuff stirred it up into a cloudy, milky yellow. I used PEAK. I pulled out the first refill immediately to get all the sediment it stirred up, then refilled a second time so it was clear.

Someone earlier mentioned the same thing happening, but thought it was because of bubbles. I don't think bubbles caused the cloudiness. I tried blowing bubbles into some new fluid, but it doesn't go cloudy.

If there's that much sediment @ 30K, I'm going to make another attempt to get the local dealership to do it. I called to ask about it and they said they'd never done it before, but someone else asked that week too. They said they could quote me for parts but didn't know about labor. I said it was Dot3. They forwarded my call to the parts department...

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Y'all do what you want. I put 160k on the first Niro and 119k on this one and never touched that fluid. My motto if it ain't broke, don't fix it. If it is broke, get a new car. Good luck.
 

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There is a lot of D.Y.I's out there doing this service themselves. I just had the service done @ the dealership . Cost was 140. Had a good Conversation with the Top Mechanic doing this service. There is more to this service than just replacing the fluid. He printed out the complete service, which I will attach. He stated few niro owners are doing this service and agree'd that by not complying to what is dictated in the service manual. You are risking your warranty protection if problems arise. These dual clutch transmissions are highly technical and repair costs will be also. It's a no brainers decision for me to have this service done. Best of luck to those who chose otherwise.
The more I read of your posts, the more I'm convinced you really don't know what you're talking about, and I'm also concerned the dealers / mechanics you speak to also have zero clues about this as well.

The Engine Clutch Actuator is NOT the same as the Dual Clutch transmission. ZERO.

This is what's so maddening. I have a 2017 Hyundai Ioniq, and every dealer in my town has zero clues about this service. Or some zealous service adviser will talk to the "hybrid specialist" who quotes $250 - $300 to do this service, which is insane and they are probably looking at the Dual Clutch fluid change.

I also spoke to the local Kia dealers in the hopes the service advisers there would know about this. I ask for the most experienced service advisers, and every one looks at me blankly in the eye and say "I've been here for 10-15 years, and I've NEVER heard of this service and no other customers have needed this".

Are you kidding me???

Kia / Hyunda is failing the Niro / Ioniq owners by not informing the dealers of this service. This is why I will go the DIY route of sucking up the fluid and changing it.

I do NOT trust the dealers to do this right, EVEN if you paid them $300 to do it. I would demand to watch the mechanic doing this as I'm pretty sure they'll either do the clutch fluid, or nothing at all, and just give you a receipt that it's done.

Kia Niro / Hyundai Ioniq owners CANNOT trust the dealers for this service....so many of them are completely clueless. Just because you have a receipt that they did this, and you paid $89, $150, $300 to do this, means NOTHING.
 

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I change the clutch fluid in my Niro at 15k intervals (every other oil change). It is just a drain and fill - no bleeding necessary. The improvement in shifting and take off is immediate.
The "improvement in shifting and take off"???? you are talking about the Dual Clutch transmission, not the Engine Clutch Actuator -- that has zero to do with shifting and take off!!

This is so maddening and frustrating. So many people seem to think they know what this is, when they really don't know this topic at all.

The Engine Clutch Actuator is NOT the Dual Clutch transmission.

I'd like to beat this info into the dealers' brains. So many automatically assume it's the transmission, even when I give them a 2 minute explanation of what the Engine Clutch Actuator is.... they seem to have zero listening skills and start blabbing about the transmission. Insane.
 

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My dealer didn't want to actually say he didn't think it was necessary but I could tell from his body language. He knew what I was talking about and it cost $85 less the 15% off coupon I had. I think I will subscribe to gbillyg theory, and forget about it in the future.
 
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My dealer didn't want to actually say he didn't think it was necessary but I could tell from his body language. He knew what I was talking about and it cost $85 less the 15% off coupon I had. I think I will subscribe to gbillyg theory, and forget about it in the future.
The problem is do the dealers really know better than the engineers of the vehicle? Time will tell. I will be very ticked off if something should fail and not be covered under warranty because dealers were too ignorant of this service item.
 

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Yeah, the volume might be relevant. But the primary opportunity for water to enter is presumably via the reservoir cap, and if you leave that on, then water shouldn't be getting in. If water is getting in, then apparently it's entering at an extremely slow rate, or 18 months (22,500 miles) wouldn't be nearly often enough.

On the Niro, as with many other cars that have a hydraulic clutch, you use DOT-3 brake fluid for both the brakes and the clutch. So the same concerns about brake fluid (particularly the concern about it attracting moisture) apply equally to both.

My Honda dealer recently recommended that I change the brake fluid on (what is now my wife's) 2008 CRV. It was kind of discolored, the car's in really good shape, and now that it's my wife's primary car, I'm a little more inclined to perform certain kinds of preventative care than I would be if I was driving it (partly because I love my wife, partly because I don't trust her quite as much as I trust myself to notice when the car has a new quirk that might need attention). In the past, I've only changed brake fluid or clutch fluid when I had the lines open for some other reason (broken flexible brake line, leaking slave cylinder, etc). It was a brand new experience to me to change the brake fluid as just a preventative kind of thing, but I decided it was worth doing (except, not at the Honda garage). I checked just now and I see that Honda didn't include changing the brake fluid in the scheduled maintenance table for that car, but they did put in a foot note recommending that it should be replaced every three years.

My bad, I've gone for a really long time with a number of cars where I never changed out the brake fluid. And then on a couple of them, I wound up doing it because I had to bleed the lines anyway due to some other maintenance that was needed. I don't think changing the fluid would have prevented flexible brake hoses from springing a leak on cars I owned in the distant past, but it might have prevented a clutch slave cylinder from leaking, maybe.

Although the Niro Owner's manual is pretty clear that the clutch fluid should be changed every 18 months or 22,500 miles, it only requires that the brake fluid be inspected, doesn't require it to ever be changed (although I suppose a dealer might inspect it and then recommend that it be changed).

Given that several people have stated that their dealer didn't know how to perform this service, while others said they paid upwards of $80 for it, I might wind up being one of those people that says the dealer isn't touching my car (for this particular service). Assuming you can get away with doing it without needing to retrain the computer and with just the investment in a power bleeder and a bottle of brake fluid, I might wind up doing this one myself when I reach the point where the manual recommends that it should be done. My total cost would be slightly less, I'd have confidence that it was done thoroughly (rather than wondering if maybe the mechanic just changed the fluid in the reservoir).

I'm a fan of having the dealer change my oil because that's usually a "loss leader" for them and the few dollars I save in doing it myself doesn't justify the effort, time, mess, and also because they record the event and also because they are likely to tell me about things that I might not find out about if I didn't visit them. But when the service cost goes up and the service manager is signaling that they don't normally do that and don't exactly know how to do it, I might rather be the one that learns how to do it right, rather than paying the dealer's mechanic to learn at my expense and with less interest than I have in ensuring that it's done right.
Was just recommended to get this done at an oil change. They are charging $149 for the actuator fluid replacement at my Kia dealer. Ouch.
 

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Dealership doesnt know what to do...

When I went to a local dealer the other day, they had no idea what this job was, had no code for it in their books, and had never done it. However, the shop mechanic showed me the relevant pages in his online manual and performed the job. Charge was $180, a little steep, I thought, as they charged me for an hour of time, the fluid, a recycling fee, tax of course -- and perhaps their learning.
 

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I agree with what you say. Our local Kia dealer that's a little closer than the dealer I bought my car at had no idea about this either. When I went to the dealer that I bought my car from for it's free oil change they knew about it and charged me $85. That was awhile ago. When I just went again last week there was a new girl that was my service writer that day, I asked her if it was still $85 for the next time I come in and she had no idea and tried to tell me I needed a transmission flush and fill. I told her to remember this is a Niro and that's not correct.. One of the mechanics happened to be there and heard this and almost broke out laughing. He told the new girl he would explain it to her after. Moral of the story is a lot of service writers don't know the Niro, ask one of the mechanics.
 

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The link to the diagnostic tool is either an extremely old site, or woefully out of date. It lists supporting Hyundai up to 2017 and Kia only 2014 model years. It also mentions needing Windows XP/7, both of which have reached end of life support from Microsoft. This site appears to be based in China, and I can't find anything on their site for newer cars. Highly unlikely they have software that will work on any model of Niro.
 

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The link to the diagnostic tool is either an extremely old site, or woefully out of date. It lists supporting Hyundai up to 2017 and Kia only 2014 model years. It also mentions needing Windows XP/7, both of which have reached end of life support from Microsoft. This site appears to be based in China, and I can't find anything on their site for newer cars. Highly unlikely they have software that will work on any model of Niro.
Good catch on the model years. I ended up calling the local dealer instead of using their website scheduler and got my car in and out in one day today.
 
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