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I have a 2018 Niro PHEV that I really like. However as of two days ago, the car display won't turn off. I turn off the engine but the radio will keep playing even if the door is open (normally turns off as you open it to get out) and I hear a beep every so often since it is on, this has resulted in me being stranded with the battery completely drained. Won't turn on, no display, etc. Had to manually open the door, cannot disengage the plug-in panel to even try to plug in to charge the Li battery. Waiting on AAA to jump start to see if that will work then drive to the dealership. I have not done anything in the settings to change things.
 

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I have confused the system occasionally resulting in something like that. If you try to turn the car on without depressing the brake petal while starting the car this will result in only the dash potion of the car turning on. The only way I have found to get the dash system to turn off is to get the car to fully turn on and then turn it off again. Could potentially be that you didn't have your foot on the brake petal when trying to turn the car off (haven't ever done that so don't know if that might be the problem).

You could also try seeing if you could turn the car on and off again via the app (by asking for heat) and see if that fixes it. Doubt it would do anything different than the normal turning things on and off again, but worth a try since the software instructions could potentially be different.
 

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I have confused the system occasionally resulting in something like that. If you try to turn the car on without depressing the brake petal while starting the car this will result in only the dash potion of the car turning on. The only way I have found to get the dash system to turn off is to get the car to fully turn on and then turn it off again. Could potentially be that you didn't have your foot on the brake petal when trying to turn the car off (haven't ever done that so don't know if that might be the problem).

You could also try seeing if you could turn the car on and off again via the app (by asking for heat) and see if that fixes it. Doubt it would do anything different than the normal turning things on and off again, but worth a try since the software instructions could potentially be different.
If turning the car on and off with the brake petal depressed doesn't work, maybe it is the brake sensor.
 

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... as of two days ago, the car display won't turn off. I turn off the engine but the radio will keep playing even if the door is open (normally turns off as you open it to get out) and I hear a beep every so often since it is on
A few days ago, I had a somewhat similar experience. When I went to power off the car, I mistakenly hit the stop button twice instead of once. That toggled it into Accessory mode, and when I opened the door, the radio didn't shut off. I hit the button a third time and it didn't seem to make a difference, didn't want to go out of Accessory mode. So I put my foot on the brake pedal, powered it back on, then off, and it shut down properly.
 

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Same problem

Coincidentally, the same thing happened to me the day before yesterday. That’s what prompted me to join this forum in fact. I noticed that the display didn’t turn off when I turned off the car and opened the door. I tried various ways to turn it off, restarting the car, putting it in gear, then turning off again, pushing and holding the switch but nothing worked. I was at a supermarket with a charging station so plugged in the cable and went to do my shopping. The traction battery was down to a range of 11 miles and up to 19 when I came out. The display was still on and I drove home without a problem and plugged in the car. The display still wouldn’t turn off. I tried changing the screen saver settings without effect. Scratched my head and took the manuals inside to search for answers. That, of course, added to my frustration. Worst laid out and least informative owners manuals, there are at least 4 of them, I have ever read. I did learn how the thing is supposed to turn off. Also that the traction battery is supposed to charge the 12 volt battery. It wouldn’t turn with the car either on or off but I was able to turn it off with the ignition in the accessory position or should I say accessory mode. And then able to turn off the ignition exit and lock up the car. Traction battery was fully charged by this time, not that I think that relevant. Ok, I thought, it’s not working correctly but it is turned off and I checked the auxiliary battery charge setting so the traction battery should protect the 12 volt battery in any case so nothing to worry about, right? Wrong. Stone cold dead the next day with the charging cable locked in place. Called road service for a tow to the dealer. I didn’t feel like screwing with it. When the assigned provider failed to show after 2-1/2 hours another was assigned. By this time their projected arrival would have been past my bedtime so I bagged it and canceled. Of course Kia road service didn’t really cancel the call so they were calling me an hour later but that’s another issue. Next morning I called again just for a jump figuring I’d drive to the dealer. When this provider’s arrival time came and went I cancelled again with Kia and put a charger on the car, at the fuse box under the hood. It wasn’t happy, lots of clicking and beeping and flashing lights, but I was able to get the hatch open. This let me put the charger directly on the 12 volt battery which worked fine. In a short time I was able to start the car normally and now the display turns off when the door is opened just like it always has. The dealer says they will go through the car if I bring it in but it will take three days and they won’t find a problem so no alternative transportation can be provided. I now wonder if my tiny little very expensive 12 v battery is toast, it was down to 3.8 volts, and what is wrong with the car that prevents the display from turning off and what is wrong with the auxiliary battery charging circuit that allows the 12 v battery to die. I have parked my car in the past for six weeks without any problem and I have seen the notification that the auxiliary charger had kicked in only a time or two but don’t remember the circumstances. It wasn’t when the car was immobile for the aforementioned six weeks. Thanks for any insight anybody might be able to offer. Otherwise love the car!
 

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Well, I can tell you about the automatic charging. It is limited to I believe 8 recharges while the car is off. That is to prevent damage to the traction battery if the vampire loss continues (in your case probably from infotainment system). Some have reported that turning off this automatic recharging reduces vampire losses dramatically as apparently implementing the voltage monitoring system while the car is off takes up a surprising amount of extra current over normal drain so your key fob and alarm system continue to work.

Running a 12 volt lead acid battery down to 4 volts is certainly not good for it, but I doubt one time will cause an early death. Hopefully there is some sort of battery warranty to cover it if it does.

I have a couple suggestions about things to try if this happens again. There is a reset button on the radio, at about 4 o'clock by the volume knob. Keep a paper clip in the car to use this reset. Next step if that doesn't work is to remove the fuse for that system wait a couple minutes and replace. Finally, if that doesn't work, disconnect the ground from the 12 volt battery and wait a few minutes before reconnecting.
 

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...I have a couple suggestions about things to try if this happens again. There is a reset button on the radio, at about 4 o'clock by the volume knob. Keep a paper clip in the car to use this reset. Next step if that doesn't work is to remove the fuse for that system wait a couple minutes and replace. Finally, if that doesn't work, disconnect the ground from the 12 volt battery and wait a few minutes before reconnecting.


Those sound like good suggestions to me, but I'd insert one at the top of the list: before you do anything else, take a picture showing the instrument cluster and the head unit, so that if you have a subsequent conversation with the dealer, they can see that the car is not in accessory or on position (no lights illuminated on the instrument cluster) and yet the head unit is on.


Given your description, this sounds like it might be a problem with a computer system, rather than a mechanical relay (because you indicated that it behaved correctly after the 12V battery went flat and then was recharged; a stuck relay would be likely to stay stuck when the battery went flat, but a computer problem would probably be cleared). For that reason, I suspect that when this happens, even if you succeed in shutting down the radio/nav system, there might be other less obvious systems that continue to draw power when they shouldn't, and disconnecting the 12 V power supply in some way (to reset the computer and also save your battery from discharging again), might be only solution that will work. Disconnecting the negative battery terminal is one way to do that, but there might be a more convenient alternative (perhaps there's a fuse you can pull that disconnects the computer, not sure because I haven't looked into this before).


One other suggestion is to find a way to communicate (politely but firmly) to your dealer on social media how badly let down you were by the roadside assistance that was worse than nothing.



Hope this doesn't happen to you again (but if it does, please share your experience with the forum).
 
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