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I know in some states they are trying to get rid of no-fault. I hope Michigan wins the fight to kill it. The whole thing with no-fault wreaks of scammy mcscammy. All I see is people that destroy your car and health not paying for it. You pay, your insurance company pays and the insurance board gets its kickbacks along with the higher premiums for the insurance companies. It reminds me of the claim that cigarette taxes were to help people stop smoking or the flood tax in my state on alcohol was there for the recovery from 100 years ago. I am sure gas tax stops people from driving and saves the environment too. LMAO
 

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I know in some states they are trying to get rid of no-fault. I hope Michigan wins the fight to kill it. The whole thing with no-fault wreaks of scammy mcscammy. All I see is people that destroy your car and health not paying for it. You pay, your insurance company pays and the insurance board gets its kickbacks along with the higher premiums for the insurance companies.

Actually it works differently than you are thinking, or at least it does up here. No Fault means you deal with your own insurance company to get your car fixed and claimes against health issues. It means that you know who you are going to sew if you are involved in a multi collision accident. Now the insurance companies go about settling who owes each other money at the end behind the scene from what you see. In the old method, it was up to you to go after each and every insurance company for loss and damages. The only winner in those days were the lawyers who took a massive slice out of anything as it seemed to take them forever to settle and your out money in the process.
 

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Three items for this thread:
1) I wouldn't assume airbags would interfere with wiring. Every pillar I've removed (as well as headliners) has factory cables clipped around them. It's very easy to run another cable along with these OEM cords. But you won't know until you look.
2) I'm surprised no one has asked about the cleanest option: tapping directly into the power behind the mirror. Eg, all the sensors, etc. It was a 10 minute install to do this in my Pacifica PHEV, and no cables running throughout the car.
3)They also make OBD reader power taps for dashcams. Not sure if the plastic cover in front of it on the Niro would still fit with something like this, but might be worth considering:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/162999576002
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Three items for this thread:
1) I wouldn't assume airbags would interfere with wiring. Every pillar I've removed (as well as headliners) has factory cables clipped around them. It's very easy to run another cable along with these OEM cords. But you won't know until you look.
2) I'm surprised no one has asked about the cleanest option: tapping directly into the power behind the mirror. Eg, all the sensors, etc. It was a 10 minute install to do this in my Pacifica PHEV, and no cables running throughout the car.
3)They also make OBD reader power taps for dashcams. Not sure if the plastic cover in front of it on the Niro would still fit with something like this, but might be worth considering:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/162999576002
As a novice with wiring, I would be worried that tapping into the sensors would cause a malfunction in those vital systems. But it does sound like the cleanest option.

The OBD connector is also intriguing. Where is the OBD port in the Niro.
 

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By the driver's left knee under a plastic cover. This cover will not go back on while using the OBD port. Some have made a cutout for use with a Bluetooth OBD device but I doubt that changes the aesthetics much for an area that the eye doesn't normally fall on.
 

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Getting a micro2 fuse tap is dead easy and then pull one of the spare fuses and plug it in. As I said in a previous posting, I went with the spare 3 across 2 down. It's a 10amp fuse and then used one of these



that will give you a +12v. The neutral you get off the bolt to the right of the fuse panel. They sell wire kits for dashcams on Amazon for $14-18 cad. Likely cheeper in the usa. All the wires tuck away easily and then you just need to run the cable tucked under the rubber around the trim of the door and then back along the front of the roof trim.


I personally wouldn't try tapping power of the ODBC as that is where all you computers talk through. Something goes wrong and you've blown a multi thousand dollar repair and good luck trying to convince KIA that you didn't do it.
 

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I personally am not the slightest bit concerned with damaging anything using the OBD. The 12v pin is rated to 4a, and OBD adapters are rated to 3a. A dashcam is going to draw less than that. While the fuse option is a good one, and I really appreciate the sharing of how you did it, the down side is it's a Niro-specific solution. An OBD tap is ubiquitous in any car, so you can quickly and easily transfer your dashcam from car to car; no need to purchase anything new. Now readers have different options to choose from, so everyone wins.

After looking behind the mirror, I agree the fuse tap could be an *easier* install than tapping into the the wires behind the mirror, as they don't seem as ready to tap as the Pacifica. But they are accessible. Cut sheathing, 2 T-taps, 12v to 5v box and done. If someone does it, let us know what color wires are the 12v and ground.
 

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You are driving a plug in I gather. The HEV has a different panel layout than the PHEV. you can use column 1 row 1 if you'd like,. that is marked as SPARE and is a 10a fuse, just like C1-R5, just look it up in your users manual for one that is marked spare. What you might also want to do is check thr output with a fuse tap installed to see if that fused point is live with the car tuned off, and that it turns on expectedly when the car is started in both EV and in HEV mode. it's a bit of testing with a multimeter.
 

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Installed mine tonight behind my rear view mirror, hardwired in to the accessory fuse. Camera is hidden to me and out of view, can't see it when driving. Only the power wire coming down is barely noticeable.

"Toughest" part was running the wire around the rear view mirror and mic(?) in the center. Even then you just need to pop off the little plastic bit and run it under. Other than that, you just need a standard trim tool to run the wire under the trim and weather stripping down to the fuse box. Wrapped up the excess wire and stuffed it in. Used two fuse taps, crimp, and electrical tape. Overall took about 15 minutes.

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Camera hidden behind rear view mirror. Ran wire under trim to A-pillar

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Ran wire along top of pillar, dented fabric a bit :( , then under weather strip down to fuses. You need to remove the trim to left of the fuse box (not shown removed here)

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Fuse box with taps installed

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I have just put in my dashcam from yy previous vehicle which was an Astra turbo, the installation n y new Kia Nero ops the wife's!' like the chap mentioned before me, run along the top of the headlining, then down the pillar remove the side panel, unclip remove the fuse board cover, then in with the fuse adapter, and neutral fixes on the side pillar, easy! yeah, why pay anyone else, when you can learn yourself. give it a go, if the car burns, due to an electric :cry:fault afterwards, then you know not to do it again that way lol!! "it will be fine"🤔🤡
 

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I have installed my dashcam via the front roof light:
6321


The dashcam has a build-in option to switch off if the voltage goes down below 12V, running voltage is 14V.
 

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I put my Garmin 20 in, it hangs off of the mirror mount. ran the wire up behind the mirror, under the head liner where it meets the glass, that was simple. The wire transitions on the seam to under the lip on the inside of the rubber door seal. Once at a entry point to under the dash ran it there, then to center console where it rests in the left cig socket!
I'm waiting for my dash cam to arrive. I have done a little exploring already in anticipation. I see a lot of plastic that may need to be pulled away just so I can plug a great big 12V dongle into that cigarette lighter hole down by the shifter. Has anyone though about grabbing some 12V juice from the map lights? Install a USB adapter up there by the sunglasses holder? Just a thought. That will be my first try for power.
 

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I'm waiting for my dash cam to arrive. I have done a little exploring already in anticipation. I see a lot of plastic that may need to be pulled away just so I can plug a great big 12V dongle into that cigarette lighter hole down by the shifter. Has anyone though about grabbing some 12V juice from the map lights? Install a USB adapter up there by the sunglasses holder? Just a thought. That will be my first try for power.
USB only supplies 5 VDC, and usually only about 500 mA, so likely not enough power for a dash cam.
 

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Yes, look here, so I could use the original cable for my dashcam:
6348

... and see my power connection a post before ...
 

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In the 12V-cigarette lighter you can plug-in an USB-adapter, there is room enough in the compartement ...
 

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My dash cam came with a USB plug right on it. It runs 2 cameras and the display, as well as the Wifi radio embedded in it.
Great, that means the cam runs on 5VDC. The "cigarette lighter" power cord must have an internal regulator to drop the voltage. Sounds like it has very low power requirements, so yes a standard USB port should be fine.
 
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