Kia Niro Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Just in case anyone else has attempted to install a transceiver in the Niro, the only place I could find to mount it was on the passenger side of the center console.

I drilled holes in the side panels using the mounting bracket as a guide. I then inserted rivet nuts for 4 mm thumb screws, which are the same size as the ones that come with the radio. Don't squeeze the riv nut gun too tight or the rivet nut will not be secure in the hole. I found squeezing it about 1/2 way to be just perfect.

Once I mounted the bracket, I need to get the best viewing angle for the display. I drill new holes in the the mounting bract for that and then I made a support out of U channel to place beneath the back end of the radio to support it and prevent the bracket rivet nuts from being pulled out of the holes. I used rivet nuts and thumb screws on the bracket as well.

It only takes 30 seconds to remove the radio and another couple of minutes to remove the brackets.

I did scratch the sides of the console when I initial attempted to mount the radio using Velcro. The Velcro didn't work because the heat from the sun would often the adhesive and the radio would fall down.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
That crossbar is costing you several mpg at highway speeds. Can you mount the antenna directly to the roof rail?

to many amateur operators losing a mpg is not a problem.... I however would use a Diamond K-400 mount and mount it to the rear hatch lip..... the way pictured here while very usable, will certainly result in mayhem in a parking structure with fluorescent lights..... been there, done that!

What I want to know, where did you grab power, any power related issues to report???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Right now I just plugged into the accessory outlet without any issues. Seems to work great.
I have a couple of different Diamond mounts, of which the rack mount is one of. I've looked over the rear hatch and can't find an acceptable spot. There is a lot of plastic on that hatch.
I previously tried the passenger side of the front hood, but RF was getting into the FT-7100, which is a piece of junk. I should try it with this new radio. Seems to have a lot better shielding.

I am aware of the MPG loss due to the bar mount and the antenna is constantly getting flexed and banged around by each section of the garage door. I haven't found a suitable mount for the closed rail design and I'm looking at fabricating my own electric folding mount. The manufactured one that is currently on the market only lasts 1-2 years before breaking down. I've found a couple of high torque, low rpm and self locking miniature motor/gear box assemblies for around $10. I would need to make a connection to the antenna mount and add a couple of limit switches. The power could be brought up the coax using caps to block the DC. I would just need to make sure that the caps can pass thru the UHF band and can handle the power.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
I have a question about the install as I am a potential buyer and will want to install my ID-4100. I assume you have a Niro HEV (non-plug in). Does it have a 12 volt battery? I want to wire directly to the battery but am not sure there is one in this model. I think there is one in the PHEV model. Thanks for the feedback.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,579 Posts
Why not hard wire it to the 12V accessory outlet on the dash? Mind you, it will turn off after you turn the car off (either timed or when you open the driver's door to exit).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Why not hard wire it to the 12V accessory outlet on the dash? Mind you, it will turn off after you turn the car off (either timed or when you open the driver's door to exit).

The proper way to install 2 way radios is to run both positive & negative leads from the battery to the transceiver.
There are many reasons you would want & need full 12 volt power at all times to the rig. While the Niro is a terrific modern auto, the 12 volt battery leaves a lot to be desired.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Why not hard wire it to the 12V accessory outlet on the dash? Mind you, it will turn off after you turn the car off (either timed or when you open the driver's door to exit).
First reason I chose to use a plug in is because I was testing to see how and if VHF/UHF radiation would in someway, shape or form, affect the electronic control systems in the vehicle. Second reason is that there isn't a separate 12VDC battery, but a circuit using a portion of the main 230VDC battery.

In theory, one could hook up to the posts used for jump starting a weak 12VDC starting circuit, but I'm not sure exactly what voltage is applied to the circuit when the 12VDC reset button is pressed inside the passenger compartment. I also didn't want to take a chance on that and cutting into the outlet wiring as being considered "rewiring", in case I fried something when transmitting. Additionally, the transceiver draws 10-12 amps on transmit, which is well below the 15 amp rating of the outlet.

I'm kinda, sorta charting new territory, and I want to limit collateral damage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,579 Posts
The other option is to hard wire directly to the battery. That will require removing the guards from the traction battery under the rear seat to get to it. No job for the faint of heart! But the issues of a battery restart will remain. You may find you can test a voltage surge by running the battery flat and pushing reset with a volt meter. Not sure that would work as car still isn't "on" to feed power to outlets (which still means you are safe). Think about sensitive CPUs that are hooked up to the 12 V battery. Should be safe for a radio. You could also make a buffer or a fuse between the car and the radio.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
yticolev,

Thanks for your comments. I probably shouldn't have made an assumption that whomever is reading this is somewhat familiar with wiring amateur gear into vehicles. The assumption included the use of fused lines to the power source. I'm pretty confident that the best place to check the voltage for the battery reset would be at the posts used for the jump start, but I've just been too lazy. I would also assume that no harm would come to the battery if the reset is pressed when it already has a sufficient charge. I would feel more comfortable if I had the electrical schematics. The ones on-line are for the non-US version which includes a real live 12VDC battery in the rear passenger side corner of the vehicle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
I recently installed an ICOM 4100 with a detachable head unit in my 2018 PHEV EX Premium. One advantage of the PHEV is that it actually has a 12v battery, so I can connect my radio directly to it. I used a Powerwerx fused adapter cable to connect to the battery. The unit is installed under the front passenger seat with the head installed on the dash. I have a mic extension, so the mic is easily accessible from the driver seat. Finally, I installed a Comet RS-720 lip mount until I get the nerve to drill a hole in the roof. A roof mounted antenna will certainly perform best, and the headliner can easily be accessed by removing the dome light. Pictures attached.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
I recently installed an ICOM 4100 with a detachable head unit in my 2018 PHEV EX Premium. One advantage of the PHEV is that it actually has a 12v battery, so I can connect my radio directly to it. I used a Powerwerx fused adapter cable to connect to the battery. The unit is installed under the front passenger seat with the head installed on the dash. I have a mic extension, so the mic is easily accessible from the driver seat. Finally, I installed a Comet RS-720 lip mount until I get the nerve to drill a hole in the roof. A roof mounted antenna will certainly perform best, and the headliner can easily be accessed by removing the dome light. Pictures attached.
How did you route the 12v cable to the aux battery in the rear? Did you try and hide it under carpet or just fling it back and route around seat back cushions?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
894 Posts
I haven't hard mounted a rig in my car for decades. I've just stuck with handhelds. But with the Niro I haven't even bothered with an antenna. Mostly because it's a lease, so don't want to mess anything up on the car as far as running wires or coax. At the moment I only have two functional radios, a Baofeng dual band handheld and an old Kenwood TS-140S HF rig. I can't have outdoor antennas on my house (lousy HOA rules) so not particularly active at the time.

KA7IZA
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
I haven't hard mounted a rig in my car for decades. I've just stuck with handhelds. But with the Niro I haven't even bothered with an antenna. Mostly because it's a lease, so don't want to mess anything up on the car as far as running wires or coax. At the moment I only have two functional radios, a Baofeng dual band handheld and an old Kenwood TS-140S HF rig. I can't have outdoor antennas on my house (lousy HOA rules) so not particularly active at the time.

KA7IZA
I didn’t know you were a HAM. I don’t have much either in the way of equipment. An old Yaesu 2m handheld and an old Icom 2m Mobile and that’s it. I just discovered Echolink though and that seems pretty cool. We might be able to link up through it on a remote repeater.

73 de KG4GYV
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
894 Posts
I was into SWL and CB in the 60s and 70s, and finally got my ham license in 1980. Used to be on the air all the time on 2 meters, as I had close to an hour commute. Talking on the radio helped me stay awake after a mid-shift. Once I reached journeyman status, I moved close to work, so really fell off the radio, and as I said I can't have an antenna on my home.

The Baofeng is such a pain to program that I rarely even turn it on. I do have it set on a local 440 repeater, and occasionally listen in. Most of the old timers I used to talk with have probably all passed away by now. My best friend from High School is also licensed, but we'll talk more on the phone or text. I really need to come up with some sort of stealth HF antenna and see what I can do. I did try loading my gutter system, but it didn't radiate worth a darn.

I did have some Echolink software on my computer at one time (not certain I reinstalled after an OS refresh), and it's pretty amazing what you can do with that. But, we're on a car forum and probably really boring some of the members here. :giggle:
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top