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My 2018 Niro HEV is about ready for its first oil change. The dealer isn’t close or convenient so I’ll probably take it to Tires Plus that I’ve been using for years now. Is there anything unusual about the Niro that will confuse the average grease monkey? Does it take regular or synthetic oil? Should I do it myself (haven’t done oil changes before)?
 

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If the 2019 manual is the same, it lists both 10W-30, 0/5W-20 and 5W-30, depending on the expected lowest temperature expected. If the outdoor temp is expected to remain above 0F, then 10W-30, otherwise one of the other two. Since he's in Florida, I recommend 10W-30.

It also doesn't specifically state synthetic, although I would probably use it myself. All the manual states is:

ACEA A5 *3 or above API SM or above, ILSAC GF-4 or above

*3 : If the ACEA A5 engine oil is not available in your country, you are able to use API service SM or above, ILSAC GF-4 or above, ACEA A3
 

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If the 2019 manual is the same, it lists both 10W-30, 0/5W-20 and 5W-30, depending on the expected lowest temperature expected. If the outdoor temp is expected to remain above 0F, then 10W-30, otherwise one of the other two. Since he's in Florida, I recommend 10W-30.

It also doesn't specifically state synthetic, although I would probably use it myself. All the manual states is:

FYI, all Niro sent from Korea to Canada comes with a 0w20 Synthetic oil in the engine, but dont know about the USA.
 

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Read your Owner's manual. Here is a snapshot of the relevant lubricants page from my 2018 Niro PHEV Owner's Manual in the USA.

As you can see, for Engine Oil: 0W-20 API SN or ACEA C2.
Notice there's a footnote to see the next page for recommended SAE viscosity numbers, based on temperatures. This is where the 2018 owners manual differs from the 2019. My manual doesn't list viscosity on the chart you attached. You have to look at the next page for those recommendations. Does the 2018 manual also have the 10W-30 recommendation if the temps remain above 0F? Sine the OP is in Florida, I would say that 10W-30 suits his environment better, as long as it's shown on that chart.
 

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That stock oil filter is a bitch to get off. Almost didn't get it off it was so tight. Better let someone else do it.
It, like all new cars, is really tough. Complicating that is that oil filter wrenches are not standard. My 3 prong wrench got it with some difficulty. The trick is continuous force as the rubber, unlike a steel, gives way slowly. I have a wrench for the NAPPA Gold/WIX that I'll use from now on. I also use Moble 1, 0W20 oil.
 

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Clearly the specified 0W-20 is appropriate for every climate in North America. Yes, you can safely use higher viscosity oil, but the only difference will be reduced fuel economy.
Going from a 0W-20 to 10W-30 would likely not make a measurable difference in MPG overall. Particularly with a PHEV that spends a lot of time in EV mode. While I agree they show the 0W-20 acceptable at the higher temp range, my personal, old fella/old school experience wants just a little higher viscosity when the temps are hitting triple digits. Just being the grumpy old man, I guess. >:)
 

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Fyi, my hev now has 14, 000 mi in southern nevada climate. I now run 10w30 full synthetic. Have not noticed reduction in mpg. However, I have experienced fuel in oil. Recommend checking your oil regularly.
 

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No one should be doing AB tests on oil viscosity versus mpg. That is kind of like doing your own tests to determine the world is flat and difficult to do because of confounding variables. Most modern cars have 0-20 oil specified because fleet mpg is better and needed to meet regulatory goals. You are free to use oil from last century, just be aware that last century practices are responsible for the wars and climate change we will be enduring for the foreseeable future.
 

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Easy Oil Change

The oil change isn't too difficult. You just need remove the covers for the filter and the oil plug. They are marked and easy to find. It is easier with ramps though since the car is so low. If you go to AutoZone they usually have a special for 5 quarts of full synthetic and a premium filter for about $30 - $35. Since it only takes 4 quarts, you can get the individual quart bottles and set one aside.
I've use Valvoline Full Synthetic Modern Engine 0W-20.
 

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Hey ytcoliv., I used to have respect for you and your comments. Now you had to go smartass in regards to my comment on using 10w30 without understanding why. There is good reason for my switch. I have posted about my oil dilution issues. Before you post some more,I suggest you spend time reading. Then I will accept your apology.
 

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Hey ytcoliv., I used to have respect for you and your comments. Now you had to go smartass in regards to my comment on using 10w30 without understanding why. There is good reason for my switch. I have posted about my oil dilution issues. Before you post some more,I suggest you spend time reading. Then I will accept your apology.
My statements were factual and not intended to offend. I can see how one might see what I wrote as political. But perhaps I can learn something here. How does using a high viscosity oil fix or ameliorate fuel contamination?
 

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The thought is likely that fuel contamination reduces viscosity so the higher viscosity oil compensates somewhat. Oil viscosity is so temperature dependent that the difference between W30 and W20 is likely negligible or may even be opposite of the numbers. The science of oil is certainly not so simple as viscosity. Often folks think viscosity lubricates when actually film strength does. The oil pump is positive displacement so oil is bypassed if the viscosity is high enough to raise pressure to the point that bypass restricts flow. If flow is restricted so is cooling, the second most important function of oil.

Niro oil pressures @ given RPMs, bypass pressure and how they relate to viscosity, I haven't the foggyest but I am positive that 10W30 vs 0W20 is insignificant; certainly not related to wars and climate change in any way.
 

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The crack about wars and climate change come from efficiency gains in vehicles, and improved oil is part of that. Low efficiency everything, and greater dependency on Mideast oil, and more hydrocarbons burned which causes climate change. If 0W20 was insignificant, I can tell you that auto makers wouldn't specify it.

Film strength, and film strength life is why I've always used synthetics (since 1974). Increases engine life (theoretically as a better lubricant), doesn't break down as fast which means longer oil change intervals, and hold more particulates in suspension. Hard to engineer 0W20 in an oil base, so forced to use synthetics is good for the environment here in a number of ways. Every efficiency gain is significant as they all add up, especially when you are talking millions of vehicles. I'm opposed to removing them.
 
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