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Is there anything unusual about an oil change for the Niro HEV?

13K views 30 replies 12 participants last post by  Mal 
#1 ·
My 2018 Niro HEV is about ready for its first oil change. The dealer isn’t close or convenient so I’ll probably take it to Tires Plus that I’ve been using for years now. Is there anything unusual about the Niro that will confuse the average grease monkey? Does it take regular or synthetic oil? Should I do it myself (haven’t done oil changes before)?
 
#3 ·
If the 2019 manual is the same, it lists both 10W-30, 0/5W-20 and 5W-30, depending on the expected lowest temperature expected. If the outdoor temp is expected to remain above 0F, then 10W-30, otherwise one of the other two. Since he's in Florida, I recommend 10W-30.

It also doesn't specifically state synthetic, although I would probably use it myself. All the manual states is:

ACEA A5 *3 or above API SM or above, ILSAC GF-4 or above

*3 : If the ACEA A5 engine oil is not available in your country, you are able to use API service SM or above, ILSAC GF-4 or above, ACEA A3
 
#5 ·
If the 2019 manual is the same, it lists both 10W-30, 0/5W-20 and 5W-30, depending on the expected lowest temperature expected. If the outdoor temp is expected to remain above 0F, then 10W-30, otherwise one of the other two. Since he's in Florida, I recommend 10W-30.

It also doesn't specifically state synthetic, although I would probably use it myself. All the manual states is:

FYI, all Niro sent from Korea to Canada comes with a 0w20 Synthetic oil in the engine, but dont know about the USA.
 
#10 ·
It, like all new cars, is really tough. Complicating that is that oil filter wrenches are not standard. My 3 prong wrench got it with some difficulty. The trick is continuous force as the rubber, unlike a steel, gives way slowly. I have a wrench for the NAPPA Gold/WIX that I'll use from now on. I also use Moble 1, 0W20 oil.
 
#7 ·
Notice there's a footnote to see the next page for recommended SAE viscosity numbers, based on temperatures. This is where the 2018 owners manual differs from the 2019. My manual doesn't list viscosity on the chart you attached. You have to look at the next page for those recommendations. Does the 2018 manual also have the 10W-30 recommendation if the temps remain above 0F? Sine the OP is in Florida, I would say that 10W-30 suits his environment better, as long as it's shown on that chart.
 
#12 ·
Going from a 0W-20 to 10W-30 would likely not make a measurable difference in MPG overall. Particularly with a PHEV that spends a lot of time in EV mode. While I agree they show the 0W-20 acceptable at the higher temp range, my personal, old fella/old school experience wants just a little higher viscosity when the temps are hitting triple digits. Just being the grumpy old man, I guess. >:)
 
#14 ·
No one should be doing AB tests on oil viscosity versus mpg. That is kind of like doing your own tests to determine the world is flat and difficult to do because of confounding variables. Most modern cars have 0-20 oil specified because fleet mpg is better and needed to meet regulatory goals. You are free to use oil from last century, just be aware that last century practices are responsible for the wars and climate change we will be enduring for the foreseeable future.
 
#15 ·
Easy Oil Change

The oil change isn't too difficult. You just need remove the covers for the filter and the oil plug. They are marked and easy to find. It is easier with ramps though since the car is so low. If you go to AutoZone they usually have a special for 5 quarts of full synthetic and a premium filter for about $30 - $35. Since it only takes 4 quarts, you can get the individual quart bottles and set one aside.
I've use Valvoline Full Synthetic Modern Engine 0W-20.
 
#16 ·
Hey ytcoliv., I used to have respect for you and your comments. Now you had to go smartass in regards to my comment on using 10w30 without understanding why. There is good reason for my switch. I have posted about my oil dilution issues. Before you post some more,I suggest you spend time reading. Then I will accept your apology.
 
#18 ·
My statements were factual and not intended to offend. I can see how one might see what I wrote as political. But perhaps I can learn something here. How does using a high viscosity oil fix or ameliorate fuel contamination?
 
#19 · (Edited)
The thought is likely that fuel contamination reduces viscosity so the higher viscosity oil compensates somewhat. Oil viscosity is so temperature dependent that the difference between W30 and W20 is likely negligible or may even be opposite of the numbers. The science of oil is certainly not so simple as viscosity. Often folks think viscosity lubricates when actually film strength does. The oil pump is positive displacement so oil is bypassed if the viscosity is high enough to raise pressure to the point that bypass restricts flow. If flow is restricted so is cooling, the second most important function of oil.

Niro oil pressures @ given RPMs, bypass pressure and how they relate to viscosity, I haven't the foggyest but I am positive that 10W30 vs 0W20 is insignificant; certainly not related to wars and climate change in any way.
 
#20 ·
The crack about wars and climate change come from efficiency gains in vehicles, and improved oil is part of that. Low efficiency everything, and greater dependency on Mideast oil, and more hydrocarbons burned which causes climate change. If 0W20 was insignificant, I can tell you that auto makers wouldn't specify it.

Film strength, and film strength life is why I've always used synthetics (since 1974). Increases engine life (theoretically as a better lubricant), doesn't break down as fast which means longer oil change intervals, and hold more particulates in suspension. Hard to engineer 0W20 in an oil base, so forced to use synthetics is good for the environment here in a number of ways. Every efficiency gain is significant as they all add up, especially when you are talking millions of vehicles. I'm opposed to removing them.
 
#21 ·
Hey did that guy that thought the world was flat and was going to launch his own rocket to prove it ever get his rocket off the ground? Back to the subject LOL. We live in Florida and I was going to use a higher viscosity oil also but the tech. at the Kia dealer was quite insistent that the only oil that should be used is 0W-20 full synthetic. Since I get free oil changes from them I didn't argue with him.
 
#22 ·
There's one problem with synthetic, and that is that there is no unified standard on what classifies an oil as synthetic. I believe that the big name brands all have a superior product to conventional oil, but often people buy on price. Just because an oil is labeled as a synthetic doesn't mean it offers the same protection as another brand. But back to the original question, if you are using a quality, name brand, full synthetic oil, I would agree that using 0W-20 anywhere in North America is fine.
 
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#23 ·
Some synthetic oil is made from Group IV base oil and some from Group III. This caused a lawsuit between Mobil and Castrol and both were determined to be synthetic. That is the only controversy I know of and it is a non-issue. "Full" synthetic is a marketing term with no real definition, but as some oils are blended synthetic and "regular", it generally means the real thing.

As is the case with all oils, synthetics also vary in performance. Here is a video I watched a few months ago testing Mobil One versus Amazon Basic full synthetic. Spoiler, Amazon was very very close to Mobil One.
 
#24 ·
The definition of synthetic oil is an interesting story. There are few oils that are true PAO oils (type IV). The rest are highly refined conventional oil, (Type III). The lawsuit was a big deal at the time. The short story is that Moble was synthesizing and Castroil was refining. When Castroil won the suit allowing them to call their Type III synthetic; Moble stopped synthesizing and started refining, they wouldn't have been able to compete otherwise. I'm with Moble on this one but they lost....
 
#25 ·
Viscosity has a big effect on starting and stopping the ICE. Also consider length, duration and speed of the prevalent type of trips you make. Short trips mostly, use the 0w20. I wouldn't go any higher than 5w30 though. Even a lengthy trip on the highway will have the engine starting and stopping often.
I'm in northern NJ and currently the daytime highs are between 85/95F. In each tankful we have about 2/3 expressway round trips of 75mi each. The rest of the miles my wife drives to and from work, 6mi one way, 25/40mph, traffic lights and a couple bottlenecks. Based on our usage pattern 0w20 makes the most sense, even with this heat wave. Also, we don't drive many miles. 7500mi oil changes would take us through all the seasons and more.
If they made a 0w30 I'd probably run that.
 
#26 ·
If you read your owners manual, it lists a chart of recommended viscosity's based on the temperature environment you run in. Looking at chart and reading what it says. No brainer for me to run 10w30 full synthetic. I run in the southwest. With fuel diluting my oil I need all the viscosity I can get.
 
#28 ·
Just did my second oil change. What a waste, the oil was still transparent. It obviously didn't need changing. I did it just for warranty reasons. The PHEV could, theoretically, go the 7500 miles without the ICE ever running. I understand why KIA uses 7500 miles due to the average Joe not looking at anything but the odometer. Just another example of trying to conform to the ICE mentality.

Gas burned would be far more useful in determining oil life...... About 160 gallons would be the equivalent of 7500 miles at the 46.5 mpg or so my car gets in pure hybrid mode. I burned 120 gallons so I only used 75% of the 7500 mile life of the oil. Additionally the 7500 is a ridiculously low number for a good synthetic. I have had Blackstone analysis done at 10,000 miles and TBN and particulates, the best measures of oil life, we're fine for considerably more.

The Niro is not your father's Oldsmobile and modern synthetics are not your father's 30 wt.
 
#29 ·
I'm at four months and 4500 miles. I just checked my Fuelly data and see that I've burned a whole 25 gallons, not counting the few drops I've used in the current tank. I have to make a 150 mile trip today, so I'll burn a few gallons. But if 160 gallons would be equivalent to 7500 ICE miles, I don't need an oil change until 26,000 miles. :)
 
#30 ·
I just did a Blackstone lab on 12,500 miles and three years since last oil change on my Honda motorcycle. They recommended I go further. This motorcycle uses the same engine oil to lubricate the transmission and clutch as well. I checked because of that, I've gone 25,000 miles between changes since the late 1970's in the cars I've owned. I did get some negative feedback on Blackstone's recommendations on a motorcycle forum. Of course, I asked first for other accounts of long OIC intervals on motorcycles and all they came up with was suggesting Blackstone. Then lambasted me for using them after I posted the report!

Currently at 17,000 miles since last oil change in my Niro.
 
#31 ·
Forums seldom condone long oil change intervals. Obviously dealers and the quick lube places recommend shorter intervals for profit reasons but oil analysis of synthetics indicate quite the contrary. Additionally, there is some evidence that the shorter changes are actually detrimental to engine life. The initial dry start or some form of oil conditioning could be the culprit.

Anecdotal evidence really isn't but I have a vehicle with 388,000 miles that hasn't had the oil changed in many years and maybe 30,000 miles. It uses a quality synthetic that has been used in another vehicle for 10,000 miles or so. It's not on the road any more but that's due to rusted brake lines not engine problems.
 
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