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What type of engine oil should I use?

At 6,500 miles, I'm getting ready to do the first oil change on my 2017 Kia Niro EX. Problem is...the US manual seems to give conflicting advice on the proper engine oil. I've attached an image of chapter 9 page 7 titled "RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS AND CAPACITIES" which simultaneously calls for "ACEA A5 or above / 5W30" and "SAE 5W-30 (API SL / ILSAC GF-3 / ACEA A3)".

So...which is it? Can I use ACEA A5? ACEA A3? Either? Can I use an oil with the ILSAC GF-3 or API SL rating but no ACEA rating?
 

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At 6,500 miles, I'm getting ready to do the first oil change on my 2017 Kia Niro EX. Problem is...the US manual seems to give conflicting advice on the proper engine oil. I've attached an image of chapter 9 page 7 titled "RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS AND CAPACITIES" which simultaneously calls for "ACEA A5 or above / 5W30" and "SAE 5W-30 (API SL / ILSAC GF-3 / ACEA A3)".

So...which is it? Can I use ACEA A5? ACEA A3? Either? Can I use an oil with the ILSAC GF-3 or API SL rating but no ACEA rating?
Update: I called two separate service departments at local Kia dealers (Rosen and Russ Darrow) in Milwaukee who told me they use 0W-20 API-SN or ACEA C2 for both 2017 and 2018 Kia Niros. Now I'm even more confused.
 

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Update: I called two separate service departments at local Kia dealers (Rosen and Russ Darrow) in Milwaukee who told me they use 0W-20 API-SN or ACEA C2 for both 2017 and 2018 Kia Niros. Now I'm even more confused.
Turns out I had a manual from some other region. The manual for my region and my two local dealers agree with the recommendation for 4.01qts of 0W-20 API-SN or ACEA C2 (evidence attached). Now to find a suitable manufacturer.
 

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Might be sometime before someone does their own (as said - it's new and then there are Freebies).

SO, First guy that shows details here or on U-Tube gets a GOLD STAR.

That and some money between a Nickle and $3 will get you a coffee (depends on where you get the coffee). There is a Marathon on Hwy 411 south of Maryville, TN (Greenback, TN) that has a Nickle Coffee. The small cup - so seldom see anyone buy a large cup when two small cups will do. I sometimes tip them 100 to 200%.
Found a suitable oil (Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0W-20) and put this video together
. Hope this helps!
 

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Nice video, but you should start the vehicle and let it run for a few minutes. This does 2 things, first it fills the filter with oil causing the level to drop and second it checks for leaks. Keep the covers off until you do this.
 

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Thanks for the video, it helped a lot. Just finished my first change. I left the covers off so can drive around a bit to make sure no surprises. Not as strong as you so could not get the bolts loose by hand. Thanks again.
 

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I don't have a Niro yet but I checked the owner guide on the Internet. There is a requirement in the maintenance schedule to change the
"engine clutch actuator fluid" at 18 months or at 22,500 miles.
I believe this fluid in a conventional stick shift tranny would be the clutch master and clutch slave cylinder fluid.
The fluid Kia uses is inexpensive DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture which can cause corrosion in the metal parts of the clutch hydraulic system.
While the fluid is cheap, the procedure to change it depends on accessibility. Sucking out the brake fluid from the reservoir is easy but won't change the fluid entirely.
I wonder what will be the labor charge for this or it is something the average car owner could accomplish at home.
In a conventional car changing this fluid brings up the need to bleed the system or the clutch pedal goes soft and won't work properly.
I wonder if anyone here reached close to 22K miles and had this service completed?
 

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I opened the hood of my Niro today for the first time, and boy, there are a lot of reservoirs in there. Including two labeled DOT 3 or 4. One for the clutch, and one for the brakes I presume. Why would brakes have a longer service interval than the clutch?

No direct radiator cap that I could find, only the overflow reservoir (with a cap). There is a reservoir all the way at the back of the engine (back wall to dash) that looks like the yellow DOT fluid but there was no cap (you can't reach it anyway).
 

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Never changing the oil myself

This is the 4th vehicle I've bought at the same dealership. To close the deal I asked what they could do for me on the service side. They threw in free oil changes for life. I guess it never hurts to ask>:)
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Thanks to BWHIT for the first "How To Do Oil Change" and to HANOIHANCOCK for the Video on "How To Do Oil Change" cause it made it easier for me.

Not much I can add to their INFO -- maybe something here to help someone.

EASIER, but messed with it for about 3 Hours cause did not have the oil filter wrench size needed to take the original oil filter off (It's about 81MM size). After trying everything I could, I gave up and called the neighbor. He had the wrench, should have called earlier GROAN.

Anyway, the rest of the oil change was easy enough.

I use 2 x 8s (three stack) to get car up for access to the Filter and Darin Plug.

Take the Oil Fill Cap off to help the drain process.

As BWHIT stated, takes a 10MM socket to get the covers for the Oil Filter and the Drain Plug off. It's easy to take off the covers.

As BWHIT stated, it takes a 17MM socket for the drain plug. That thing was so tight I could not break it loose with about a foot long drive for the socket (laying under the car is not the best position to apply force to the wrench). I finally resorted to a breaker bar that was barely able to get on the socket and drain plug.

BTW, as someone else reported, pretty much took a wrench to get the drain plug out and back in. The threads are too tight for hand turning (almost thought the dang thing was cross threaded or something).

I had bought Oil (Valvoline Synthetic 5W-30 in a 5 quart container) for $21.98 plus tax, a FRAM TG9688 Filter for $8.99 plus tax, and a 75mm oil filter wrench for the FRAM Filter for $3.33 plus tax --- all at WALMART.

I tried about everything I could think of except to run a screwdriver thru the filter to get the Oil Filter off. FINALLY, called a neighbor that is into cars and he had a 81MM wrench that fit the original Oil Filter.

I did use a funnel to add oil and a rag around the area in case of a spill.

By the way, I recommend filling the new Oil Filter with oil (it takes awhile to fill it -- add oil and let it settle and add more). I also run a little new oil into the engine with the drain plug off to make sure all the old oil is out.

PICTURES - Pretty well show the rest of the process.
 

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So, yesterday as I was pulling in to my driveway I hit 1000 miles on the odometer, and a message that I needed an oil change popped up on the screen. This is the first new car I've ever had that couldn't wait until at least 3500 miles before needing an oil change.
 

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So, yesterday as I was pulling in to my driveway I hit 1000 miles on the odometer, and a message that I needed an oil change popped up on the screen. This is the first new car I've ever had that couldn't wait until at least 3500 miles before needing an oil change.
The reminder is user settable, obviously incorrect. Look in your owners manual for recommended oil change intrevals and then set your reminder accordingly.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Reason for not using specified 0/20 weight?
Can't remember why I went with 5w-30, maybe only 5w-30 available at Valvoline price.

Manual

Page 9/6 says 0W-20

Page 9/7 shows temperature chart
10W-30 0F to 120F BTW, all I have ever used in any car (Dinosaur Oil)

0/5W-20, 5W-30 -20F to 120F

I don't consider it a big deal.
 

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Heavier weight oil reduces efficiency and has no benefit. Many manufacturers are specifying 0/20 now. It is one of many small changes that result in higher mpg, but most changes appear insignificant on their own. I think all are important. My first service is free, but I will be verifying that the proper oil is used.
 
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