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For the oil filter one can get an inexpensive, adjustable chain wrench. Works for other things than the oil filter too. It should work on any car you might get in the future.
 

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For the oil filter one can get an inexpensive, adjustable chain wrench. Works for other things than the oil filter too. It should work on any car you might get in the future.
You shouldnt need a chain wrench. Hand tight is what the filter should be.
 

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Those factory robots don't have hands. Several people have reported buying very expensive oil wrench to remove filter for the first service. I suspect that it would be difficult if only slightly too tight as you cannot put your hand around it through the oil filter cover. I don't even own a oil filter wrench, but think I'm going to have to get one for this car. I've always used a large locking plier, but sometimes have to crunch the filter even so to get it off. It was like that for my first change on a Honda motorcycle. Drain nut reported as too tight on the Niro and Ioniq as well. I'm letting the dealer do the first service and then I should be good to go.
 

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Drain nut was not too tight, the problem is that it requires the wrench to run it the entire way out. Its threads are not smooth enough to allow fingers to turn it.

The filter was tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Oil filter wrench not expensive (Think mine at Walmart was like $3.xx plus tax). But I bought one to fit the new filter (FRAM) and found out the one on the car (dealer did first oil change and I assume original equipment same part was different size. Fortunately -- neighbor had one to fit. TALKING the type that goes onto the bottom of the filter and has a slot for a 3/8 drive.

Can't imagine a chain type working as would be hard to get it up above the cover. Not much room for your hand or a handle up above that cover. That said, I admit -- never used a chain type in my life, but I would investigate before going to buy a chain type.

There is an adjustable that goes on from the bottom supposedly fit any filter. Neighbor had one of those also, but since he had the one that fit -- I used that.

Also, I disagree with a couple previous statements (may true for them, but not for my NORO:
1) The oil filter was very tight - no way could break it loose with hand as hard to get a grip on it thru the cover hole (I add DEALER did my first Oil Change -supposed changed it).
2)The Drain Plug was also very tight. I had a socket with about a foot long drive -- laying under the car, I could not get enough torque to break it loose despite having a pretty good angle on it. I used about a 2 foot Breaker Bar and was barely able to get it on the plug -- but did break it loose easily) I do agree about using a wrench to screw it out and back in (very little area you could turn it by hand). It's a tight thread fit as well as being over tight to start with -- make you think you have it cross threaded.
 

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Does anyone know how to change the engine clutch actuator fluid? When I log onto the Kia Owners website and look at the maintenance section for the Kia Niro, you can look at the schedule and associated dealer costs. For me, it shows the 22,500 service to be $138.85 and includes an oil change, tire rotation and changing the engine clutch actuator fluid. A tire rotation and oil change is $48.90, so I'm guessing just changing the actuator fluid is about $90 and I would think it's simple, but I can't find any guide on doing it.
 

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1) The oil filter was very tight - no way could break it loose with hand as hard to get a grip on it thru the cover hole (I add DEALER did my first Oil Change -supposed changed it).
I ended up just removing the whole belly pan and that gave me enough room to get a strap wrench on the filter. The pan comes off pretty easily with several captive fasteners and a couple of screws.

Hopefully since I didn't Conan(tm) the new filter on I'll be able to just reach up through the access panel and get it off by hand. There isn't a lot of room though, so I can see that continuing to be a challenge. Oh well. Taking the belly pan off gives me a chance to look at the underside of the powertrain and look for leaks and such. :)
 

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Does anyone know how to change the engine clutch actuator fluid? When I log onto the Kia Owners website and look at the maintenance section for the Kia Niro, you can look at the schedule and associated dealer costs. For me, it shows the 22,500 service to be $138.85 and includes an oil change, tire rotation and changing the engine clutch actuator fluid. A tire rotation and oil change is $48.90, so I'm guessing just changing the actuator fluid is about $90 and I would think it's simple, but I can't find any guide on doing it.
Wondering if you ever found the answer. Just about to hit 22,500 with mine. Can't find it anywhere.
 

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Only dealers have the special pump and software required (and not all of them made the investment).

Thanks for that info. I thought it would be just a simple drain and fill, I guess it's more involved? I thought all dealers would have to have everything required to service any model, no?
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I am near ready to change oil again Dealer did the first one.

I did the second and had to borrow oil filter wrench from neighbor cause the KIA Brand filter is a bit larger diameter than the one I had (mine is for FRAM Filter). Filter was very tight and so was the Pan Plug (used a breaker bar cause couldn't get a good position crawling under car to use normal wrench)

Third change done by dealer as had a coupon for like $9 change -- then they charged me $18 (irritated cause I called there and the girl went and asked service if the charge was only the $9 -- answered my question, then charged me more). Stuff like that gripes me.

I will be doing the fourth with procedure I posted on here when I did the 2nd change and also another poster posted his procedure. Pictures as well.

IN CASE anyone is hunting for a procedure. 0:)
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Did my second oil Change (23,047 miles) -- 4th for the car as dealer did the 1st and third, I did 2nd.

Total cost $35.72 with one quart oil left over. WALMART purchase 5 quart container of VALVOLINE 0w-20 Synthetic @ $22.97 and FRAM XG9688 Filter @ $9.63 ---- plus tax on both.

Easier this time than last time, but I still fiddled around near 2 hours getting things together and out of the basement up to the garage, putting car on board ramps and putting everything back in basement when done.

I borrowed in advance the neighbors wrench that fits the KIA Oil Filter which was installed by the dealer on 3rd oil change (The KIA filter takes a bigger wrench than the one I have for the FRAM filters).

I had in hand the 10MM socket (for removing cover shields) and 17MM socket (for removing pan nut), as well as a 3 inch extension, and ratchet and non-ratchet wrenches with drives to fit the sockets and the oil filter wrench.

The oil filter and pan nut were tight again, but not as bad as the last time I did oil change 2 after dealer had done oil change 1 (a gorilla tightened down the oil filter and drain plug - GROAN).

Put the car on board ramps (3 high 2 x 8s) which is barely enough to get under the car.

Repeat pictures I posted on my second oil change.
 

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I like my car to be level when I change the oil I can't tell in the pics if the rear of your car is up also. Tilted could not allow all the oil to drain out.
 

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I think that all depends. On my Ford Edge, the drain point was at the back of the oil pan, so if you had the front elivated, you would get the oil out more complete and also faster.
 

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I’m pretty sure the niro is in the front. When you go to a oil change place they normally lift the car up and it’s level. Probably not much oil in it anyways but I like mine level.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Been a lot of recent posts on Actuator Fluid replacement.

While DIY using method of suck reservoir dry and refill (maybe do it three times in say 300 miles) is not gonna do it like a dealer would (assuming the dealer has equipment and know what he is doing), I AM GONNA STAY with the suck and refill and hope.

partly based on fact one guy has over 100,000 miles and never changed it.

Reservoir is right center and at the radiator. Says DOT 3 or DOT 4 on it.
 
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