This is the list of products I used:
Curt Hitch: Class III 2" receiver
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer_Hitch/Curt/C13329.html
No wire cutting trailer light kit:
https://www.etrailer.com/Custom_Fit_Vehicle_Wiring/Tekonsha/119250KIT.html
RV Wiring kit for 7 pin connector:
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories_and_Parts/etrailer/ETBC7.html
Brake controller: (My trailer has a braking axle)
https://www.etrailer.com/Brake_Controller/Curt/C51140.html
Universal brake controller connector:
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories_and_Parts/Curt/C51515.html
My setup is the max out way of doing this.
You can get by just fine with just the trailer hitch. The Curt is an absolute perfect fit.
I have a 6'x12' trailer that I put a brake axle on and an electric tongue jack.
Since I decided to go with the Tekonsha no cutting brake light kit, it has to have a power wire run to it from the front(fuse box). So since running a power line to the light adapter I figured I might as well just put the RV kit on there also, it provides power and brake controll, and reverse lights(almost never used).
I have discovered that I needed just one additional part:
3 Pack Micro2 ATR APT Add-A-Circuit Lumision Fuse Tap Lot Dash Cam Radar Install | eBay
The fuse block by on the dash has nearly a dozen spare fuses, actually labeled spare. Incredible! I have the LX and it has the fuses and circuits all live for every thing you can think of, heated rear seats, heated steering wheel, heated mirrors, sun roof, power seats, every circuit is there!
My initial thought where to run the power lines to the fuse block in the engine bay. There are some very large 12V bolts there that you can tap into. However there is practically no space to fish the power wires through the firewall. Yes it can be done, but I don't need very much amperage. I have decided to just tap into the fuse block on the dash inside the cabin, and with the "Add-A-Circuits" it's a plug and play operation.
This is not a very easy job to do, but nothing is really overly challenging either. There is a big rubber grommet already in the middle by the license plate that I fed the 4 trailer light wires through. In the left rear side compartment, behind the panel is a rubber grommet that I utilized to send the brake and trailer power wires through.
Take note, that the owners manual, indicates that this car should not be used to tow a trailer. I find it amusing in the fact that Kia has a commercial literally towing another car. And there are trailer hitch mounting points designed into the car and welded in place from the factory.
Just remember that there is no GCVW rating, just GVW rating and exceeding it is not recommended. I have no doubt that the rating is based on the brakes, this car has more than enough power to pull a 2000 lb trailer.
I am very comfortable with what I am doing. I have installed a brake controller for the trailer which has brakes itself also. I have been towing trailers for many years and am very confident this car will look very silly pulling my mowing trailer.