I should have written this a couple of years ago!

We bought the Niro in Sept of 2019. Two months after purchase I checked oil level... Way over the full mark. If it's that overfilled this is a problem! Took it to dealer.

Short story is that I discovered that this over-fill reading is incorrect. There must be an edge of some sort which collects a small amount of oil which gets added to the accurate level on the plastic end of the dipstick when you withdraw it. The smooth and round plastic above the Full point comes out with oil from the tip to well up on the top of the plastic; it 'tells" you that the oil level is drastically over-filled.

How did I determine the above?

I had changed the oil using the following test dipstick and exact measuring when changing oil recently; had not driven the vehicle more than a hundred miles since that point, and was certain that the oil level had been and was right at the F level.

I took the one piece flat metal dipstick from my Nisan van's V8, measured an exact length of the Kia dipstick and marked that point. I put a drill bit depth 'stopper' at that point. I used this test dipstick and when I pulled it out there was a small amount of oil on the TOP of a 'half-circle bend' that sticks out from the regular straight metal shaft, which Nissan put about an inch above the full mark. At the 'qt. low ... Full' marking the oil level was at exactly F. The inch between that point and the bend had no oil on it. Thus, the oil on the grid between Low and Full was from it’s immersion into the oil in the pan and the bit on TOP of that sticking out half circle must have come from above.

Next I will be searching for any all metal dipstick whose ‘handle end’ fit’s the Kia’s opening with a length exactly the matching length of the one Kia put in my Niro!! Shouldn’t a $26,000 vehicle have an accurate dipstick?

If anyone knows of a non plastic tipped replacement please let me know!

I hope this helps someone

Rod House

Hello:
The same problem I have with my Niro 2020, and against my experience with cars I did as the manufacturer say in the owner manual. You should start the engine during 5 minutes and later switch off. After 5 minutes more you should extract the dipstick and clean it, introduce the dipstick again and extract it and see the level. But always the oil level is not the same. If you find some solution using another one dipstick with similar dimension, please let me know.
I believe that the excess of oil after the engine have been long time stopped came from the valves that move the camshafts and the valve bushings. The engine of the Kia Niro use 4.1 Liters of oil when the engine is totally dry, and 3.8 liters when the engine is working and retain the oil in the part mentioned before. Maybe the designer of the engine assume that after the engine is stopped it has 0.3 Liters in the system, and when you test and see the dipstick in F (full) then it is the correct measurement.
In my large experience with engines (not like this), the manufacturers said that the correct measurement of the oil is early in the morning, when the engine drained all the oil.
Regards
W

 

You lost me when you said the Niro engine takes 4.1L of oil when dry...
Owners manual says 3.8L (4 qt) of oil with filter change. When I change oil (myself) I put in 3.5L of oil because I find that the level actually increases over time and 3.5L puts the level in the cross hatch area.
I like to check the level when the engine has been sitting for several hours, like you mention but again it does not have to be right on the full mark.
.3L is not going to be a game changer.

 

I have no problem with the explanation in the procedure for checking oil level as provided in the manual (and your link). That is the reason I shoot for the cross hatch area between "L" & "F" - because I know that there is a tendency for very slight difference based on "level checking" options.
I also use 0W-20 fully synthetic oil.
The oil level only increases slightly (not concerned just aware) over 8,000 miles and that is not uncommon for a DI engine. It does not increase for the reason that you suggest. If the oil level were to drop the same amount over 8,000 miles, I would not be concerned in the least. Again, I am talking maybe .2 - .3L either way.
If the oil were to drain from the HLA, there would be major clatter when the ICE starts and engine damage would occur over time.

 

I think that the best solution is try to get a dipstick that can match with the engine (in geometry) and try to get a measurement after make a change of oil and oil filter, but using a deposit with mark and later calibrate the new Dipstick. Then we will know the real oil level.
Regarding HLA is real that the clatter appear when the HLA drain the oil inside.
Regards
W

 

Then we will know the real oil level.

I don't think so....

If you want to know the "real level", measure exactly, 3.8L of oil after change (including filter) and then check level monthly, if you prefer, but don't worry about it unless the level reads below the cross hatch (L).
I have seen many engines work just fine when they are low more than 1L and don't forget, not all the oil circulates at one time. The oil pan is actually a sump to allow some cooling of the oil.

 

Exactly.
To know the oil level can give you a signal that something is not working well. But it happens after long time of the engine work.

 

Can an overfill cause rough “startup”/ idle, P3000 misfire errors to show up, or failure to start in very low temperatures?

If the oil is (splashing) around, because too much was put in, how far can it get (into the engine) when it’s just been started?

The first “6 month” service the dealer did (at 1,497KM) was filled with “5” of bulk Castrol Edge FFT 0W20.

 

I don't think the issues you mention would be caused by too much oil but certainly, if removing the excess also removed the issues, then it would be a logical deduction.
I do not understand why the 1st service was performed at 1500km and 5L was put in...that is why I do my own oil changes.
I would never ever return to that dealer!!!

 

Ok, had the dealership change the oil on Friday (16th) as it was part of their “6-month/6K” service schedule… which they overcharged me for the first go-round.

I made sure to question how they kept record of their “bulk” oil… whether the system recorded everything as it was being added or if the (numbers) were simply human-entry. They confirmed it was the system. I then questioned how volumes were always in excess of the manual specifications… .5 - 1.5L; simply said “we can’t enter decimals”. I stressed… why put in too much then? …no response.

My next request was to have them change the plugs & coils due to the misfiring they blamed on too much water in the fuel; filled up at two different locations… still misfiring. I was told they didn’t have plugs in stock when I picked up the Niro! 🙄 They (managed?) to change the oil as per the “service 1” package… except for the battery test it looks like (not checked off).

Now, the fun stuff…

• I made sure to check the oil before starting the Niro and, again, it was over-full... called them out &, after checking 3x, the rep ends up sticking his finger overtop the section above the “Full Line” and tells me “see, it’s right on the mark”. 🙄
• to rectify the over-fill, i picked up an extractor and pulled 500ml out, giving me a level AT the “Full” mark.
• Since the fill, I drove the Niro 32 km (Friday & Saturday). With that short distance, the oil has gone virtually BLACK! My thoughts on that… plugged PVC… or who knows what with the over-fills, etc??

Here’s comparison between oil level/colour prior to the change on the dipstick; after the change (over-full); the amount I pulled & colour; where it’s at now; as well as colour comparison between prior to change, just after change, and today.

I know I don’t like what I’m seeing!

 

I think you are going to have to change to another dealer and hope for a good one.
That is absolute garbage, the way they responded to you.
I don't think there is a PCV problem and if there is misfiring it could cause carbon to enter the oil and quickly make it black. You should not see that much black oil in 32km.
I also question whether they changed the oil filter. While it is not easy for older people like me, I would get under the car and mark the oil filter before the oil change and then go under after the change and check it - I would even do that check while at the dealer and if sure the oil filter was not changed demand that they put it on the hoist and show them how you marked it.

 

Your oil cannot be "black" after 32km of driving. I question whether they actually changed the oil filter.
As I posted earlier in this thread, you must find a different shop to do the oil change and insist that the oil level be between the add and full marks.
If your reading was 3.1% after 32km you have a serious problem and power train warranty has to cover that.
I suggest you pull out another 200 - 300ml now and get that tested to see your current fuel dilution %

 

Your oil cannot be "black" after 32km of driving. I question whether they actually changed the oil filter.
As I posted earlier in this thread, you must find a different shop to do the oil change and insist that the oil level be between the add and full marks.
If your reading was 3.1% after 32km you have a serious problem and power train warranty has to cover that.
I suggest you pull out another 200 - 300ml now and get that tested to see your current fuel dilution %

After taking my issues to management, I’m due to have them “figure out” what’s wrong and rectify (it?) Monday. To be prepared I checked the oil & saw it was above full again… and had a very strong fuel smell! Sent a sample for analysis and it came back at: 15.72% FUEL!!! I d**n near fell off my chair!! The first analysis on the “changed?” oil was in September!!!

Then, driving to work yesterday the engine light came on… called the dealership & they said to come over. Their tech did a scan and found it was a misfire on cylinder 2. I can only imagine what a 15.72% fuel mixture is doing to the engine.

 

When I had a few Prius and they had overfill issues (A different problem). The mechanics at the Toyota dealer would bring the dipstick out to you in the waiting room to show it was filled properly.

 

If Kia and the dealer dragged their feet so long I would demand a new engine due to their negligence, since this is a know situation

 

(14) Oil dilution, fuel pump, bad CPS | Kia Niro Forum

 

Thanks Johnxyz, this makes even more sense… especially considering that I’ve watched fuel remaining drop when I’m driving in EV mode.

 

I'm not convinced that a bad CPS will cause dilution of fuel into the oil.
I am also not buying the " short trip/ICE not running for months excuse.

 

I agree that short trip/ICE shouldn’t be an issue and nor am I sure about the CPS. However, in the post they noted

“It's also conceivable that the real problem is not with the pump, but with the injectors dripping while the car is off.

…I've walked into my garage well after my car was parked and cooled down and heard what sounded to me like the low pressure electric fuel pump running, even though the car was off.”

This makes more sense as I hear (something) humm getting in the vehicle after it’s sat for more than 4-5 hours. Plus, watching fuel remaining drop in EV tells me the pump is either “on”, or the injectors are leaking.

 

(13) Engine oil increasing | Page 5 | Kia Niro Forum

Another cause of fuel in the oil could be because the Secondary High Pressure Fuel Pump has a bad seal and is leaking fuel into the crankcase. This has been reported atleast twice on the forum.