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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Is your forward dashcam the same model as your friend’s except that you have the extra back camera? Or is it a different model? If they are different, maybe yours needs more power? I’m not sure how you can check that. Maybe the fuse that you connected to is not enough for your cam? Again I’m not an expert so I’m just guessing.
 

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Thanks so much for taking the time to post this @Nouseformonkeys.
I'm wondering if anyone out there know how I would wire in a dashcam so I can benefit from the "Parking Mode" which I assume needs an always on supply. I have a hardwire kit that says it can support the parking mode and has a set of leads I can use to piggy back on an existing fuse.
Any ideas how I could safely figure out if any of the fuses are always on?
Thanks

Dan
 

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Voltmeter. It is just 12 volts so it will be safe. The fuses may all be powered when the car is off. If not, try the one for door switches. Those have to powered.
 

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Ok folks, for anyone interested, with help from above I installed my Apeman Cam using a piggyback fuse hardwire kit onto the fuse for the door locks so it is always on (thanks @yticolev).
6524

My cam has movement sensor and parking monotoring, that's why I wanted it always on.
I parked it pointing at a busy road and left it for two days. It recorded many 3 minute video clips of things moving around in front of the car as expected and the car showed 74% charge before and after and the expected miles actually went up (but I'm assuming that has to do with outside temp being warmer). So whatever power drain there is, it seems pretty negligible at least over a 2 day period.

Car is a 2020 e-Niro

I checked with the dealer before I did it and asked if this would affect my warranty in any way and they confirmed that it wouldn't.

Hope that's of use to someone.
 

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Well, it took a while but I finally installed the kit to connect my dashcam to the fuse box so there are no more dangling wires and no need to plug into the cigarette lighter.

I ordered this fuse tap kit which includes:

  • Long cable with a mini-usb connector on one end and a connection to the fuse tap on the other end with the 12v to 5v converter in between
  • 4 types of fuse taps and fuses
  • Plastic pry bar to pop the dash panels and to hide the cable in between panels





It took areound 2 hours to install, but most of the time went into trying to figure out the best way to route the cable and finding a bolt on the car to attach the ground cable to. If I were to do another Niro, I could probably do it in less than half an hour. After a lot of trial and error, I figure the best way to start is to start at the fuse panel and then route the cable up to the dashcam.

* Proceed at your own risk! I am not a professional and I am only relating my own experiences. *


First, position your dashcam on the windshield. If you are going to use the 3M adhesive to permanently attach it to the windshield, use some duct tape or painter’s tape to position it temporarily while to do the cabling. If you’re using the suction cup or other adjustable mounting system then you can attach the dashcam to the windshield. It’s probably best to power up the dashcam using the cigarette lighter power plug to ensure that you’re happy with its placement.

Carefully pull the weatherstripping around the door from the A-pillar down to the floor. Then pop open the fuse panel door located on panel underneath the steering wheel on the lower left side. Insert the mini-usb end of the cable into the fuse box and route it to left side of the panel. Pop the left side of the lower panel where the hood release latch is located. I couldn’t totally remove this panel because i probably needed to take off the latch, but just popping the left side gave me enough room to route the cable out of the fuse area and into the channel where the weatherstripping normally sits.





Next, pop out the A-pillar cover. Grip it at the top and pull gently straight out. It won’t come off entirely. I think there’s a clip for the side airbag that keeps it attached and I didn’t want to force. But there is enough space between the metal and the cover to keep routing the cable up towards the roof. I duct taped the usb connector to a short length of string trimmer line to route the cable from the door side to the front windshield side. I made sure to do this well below the rolled up airbag. Once the cable is on the windshield side, pull enough cable to go up the A-pillar and along the headliner and to the dashcam. Again, make sure the cable is not interfering with the airbag. There is enough room at the front of the A-pillar for the cable. Once the cable is at the corner of the A-pillar and the headliner, tuck the cable into the headliner and work your way towards the dashcam. You can use the plastic pry bar to tuck the cable between the windshield and the front edge of the headliner.



The white object at the top of this picture is the airbag rolled up like roll of wrapping paper.

Once you get to the sensor cover, the space gets tighter. When the cable is directly above the dashcam, route the cable downwards towards the cam. Ensure that the mini-usb connector will reach the cam and plug it in. The mount that I used attaches to the arm of the rear view mirror, so I routed the cable down the middle of the sensor cover and then ziptied the cable to the mirror arm.





Pop the A-pillar cover back into place. Again, make sure that the cable is not interfering with the airbag and that the airbag and the cable are not being crimped when you pop the cover back on.

Back at the fuse box, locate the spare 10A fuse in position 3 across and 2 down and unplug it. Take note of its orientation. Find the fuse tap from the kit that matches the fuse’s size. The fuse tap has two places for fuses. Orient the fuse tap so the wire is on the right side and the pins pout down. Plug the fuse into the the bottom position. Plug in the compatible fuse from the kit. I think it is a 5A fuse and it will short out if there is a problem so that the actual fuse and your electronics will not be damaged. Find the other connector from your cable and plug the fuse tap into that. I wasn’t sure if I had to crimp them together but the connection felt pretty tight so I didn’t bother. Plug the fuse tap back into the empty slot. The cable should point towards the right.



The final step is to ground the cable. There is a black ground wire that must be attached to the metal of the car. There is a bolt in the fuse box that is in the perfect position but I did not have a compatible wrench or socket to loosen it since it was in a tight spot. I could not figure out how to remove the panel and the knee airbag is there as well. I ended up routing the black wire below the fuse box, past the foot brake and attaching it to a bolt on the floor. I loosened the nut so that I had enough room to put the ground connector underneath and then tightened the nut. I then ziptied the wire to the nearest spot so it wouldn’t hang loose.



Once everything is connected, turn on the car to check that the dashcam works. If not, check your connections and that the fuses and the tap are installed in the correct way. I’m not sure what would happen if they weren’t. I suspect one of the fuses would short out. If everything works, you can now mount and position the dashcam in its final spot, tuck the extra cable and the converter into the fuse box and replace the cover. I only drove my car briefly, so I can’t tell if there are any rattles.

I hope someone finds this info useful. Since the Niro is a relatively new car, there are no specific tutorials on how to do this. It’s a relatively simple procedure but it helps to have an idea what things look like before starting.

If anyone knows how to remove the lower panel so I can get to the bolt inside of the fuse box, I’d rather connect the ground wire to that one.

Again, do this at your own risk!
Great write up. Like you I spent hours trying to find an earth point. Then I found some diagrams on line about panel removal so I used my plastic tools and a flat edged screwdriver and removed the end panel careful not to break any of the plastic snap on lugs of which there are 5. Hey presto lots of lovely earthing bolts. The panel cover ref number is : DE 84786-G5000 Cover-C/Pad Main Side RH >PP-TD20-057<
Hope this helps someone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Great write up. Like you I spent hours trying to find an earth point. Then I found some diagrams on line about panel removal so I used my plastic tools and a flat edged screwdriver and removed the end panel careful not to break any of the plastic snap on lugs of which there are 5. Hey presto lots of lovely earthing bolts. The panel cover ref number is : DE 84786-G5000 Cover-C/Pad Main Side RH >PP-TD20-057<
Hope this helps someone.
Great! Can you post the link to the site with the panel info? Might help others who are looking to install a dash cam. Maybe I’ll move my ground connection to a better spot.
 

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I really like how that mounts. I have an Ausdom with suction mount, and it falls off all the time. Sometimes it stays up for weeks, and sometimes it falls of 6 times a day. :)

AUSDOM Dash Cam A261

It makes .mov files, and you can just watch them as they are, but if you use the files with the program DashCam Viewer you get all the GPS data and g-force info. Comes in super handy when watching videos and you remember "where" something happened, not when.

So far in the 1 1/2 year of installation, I have seen exactly 1 accident and 1 almost accident. :)
I am not really sure how to use this site. It's not very intuitive. I commented on the dashcam hardwire and the earthing points under the dashboard side cover.
You asked for the link that shows the removal of same. Kia Niro : Crash Pad Side Cover Repair procedures : Crash Pad
Hope tis helps.
Bob Weeks
 

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I am not really sure how to use this site. It's not very intuitive. I commented on the dashcam hardwire and the earthing points under the dashboard side cover.
You asked for the link that shows the removal of same. Kia Niro : Crash Pad Side Cover Repair procedures : Crash Pad
Hope tis helps.
Bob Weeks

Hi Bob

thanks for this info really helpful. I'm trying to pop that panel off can I confirm with you that I have the right one? How much force did it take to pop it off? And lastly do you need to remove the rubber seal around the door as well to access it?

Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle Car Automotive exterior


Many Thanks
Alan
 

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Great post, thank you for sharing this!

I followed the steps and I was able to do a very neat job except for one thing. Somehow the cover of the A pillar won't pop back into its place. The middle part is fine but at the top it won't go back to where it was. I was very careful popping it out when disassembling and I didn't force it as far as I can tell. Also there's nothing in the way, eg the cable has been aligned to the other cable that was there already. But somehow it's still not the same as it was before, please see below,
Hood Textile Automotive tire Grey Automotive design


I was wondering if anybody else had the same issue? It feels like some parts of it have clicked back to their place but others didn't.

Is there any guidance that somebody could provide, please?

Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Ah, actually it's my bad. There was a wire in the way... All good now. Thanks again for this great posting! I'm super happy with the outcome.
Great. Glad you found the issue. That would have bothered me every time I got in the car.
 

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New camera arrives in a few days. It has automated recording while parked, and circuitry to turn itself off if the 12v battery goes below certain thresholds, to protect the battery.

Problem is, the Niro HEV no longer has a conventional lead 12v battery, and so I am wondering what voltage thresholds to set.

Cheers,
 
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